San Lorenzo used to be Rome’s hipster, mingle-with-locals neighborhood. But then tourists got a whiff of the clove cigarettes, design cuisine moved in, and San Lorenzo was discovered. Now it’s Pigneto, the charmingly gritty area behind Termini Station, that the style vanguard has infiltrated. Topping the food chain is L’Infernotto Enoteca Ristorante (31–33 Via del Pigneto; 39-06/7030-4040), an airy trattoria whose wooden tables spill onto the street. Eclectic bookshop-bars like Il Tiaso Enolibreria (20 Via Perugia; 39-333/284-5283) and Lo Yeti Libreria-Caffe (4 Via Perugia; 39-06/702-5633)—where filmmakers nurse Negronis—sit next to Bangladeshi grocers and Lebanese restaurants. And, this being Rome, there’s the predictably vibrant outdoor market on Via del Pigneto, where old ladies in housedresses bicker, gossip, and underscore every cliché.

Lo Yeti Libreria-Caffe

Opened in 2003, this library/café in the Pigneto district provides a destination for those seeking a good read, a cup of coffee, an organic snack, and spirited conversation. The interior boasts bookshelves and several small tables. Food options include organic cheeses, salads, and a selection of vegan and vegetarian foods, such as the signature panino creativo sandwich made with hummus and mozzarella cheese. Organic and local ingredients are emphasized, including vegetables from southern Italy and locally-sourced ham and salami, and for dessert, vegan pies and cakes are available.

Il Tiaso, Enolibreria

L'Infernotto Enoteca Ristorante

The Pigneto district near Termini station has become the destination for hipsters, and this trattoria fits right in. Opened in 1988, it’s run by owner and chef Dario Santilli. Many choose to sit outside at the wooden tables of this restaurant and wine bar, which offers a traditional Italian menu. Appetizers include the chicken dish prosciutto al coltello, while first courses range from oxtail with polenta to stuffed ravioli. Second courses include calamari all’ischitana, and for dessert, the Bavarian chocolate and pears is popular.