T+L Reports: Hot Tables
From New York to Bangkok, we've got the dish. Here, four of the best new tables across the globe.
TELEPAN, NEW YORK
Chef Bill Telepan has taken Manhattan's Upper West Side by storm with innovative American dishes such as caramelized Nantucket Bay scallops and black truffle pierogi with chives. 212/580-4300; dinner for two $100.
REDD, NAPA VALLEY
Richard Reddington, formerly of Auberge du Soleil, breaks out on his own in nearby Yountville. The menu of seasonal preparations (quail flavored with ham-hock emulsion) continues the chef's tradition of rustic but refined California cuisine. 650/ 933-0015; dinner for two $100.
GAYA RÎVE GAUCHE, PARIS
The playful Pop interior belies chef Pierre Gagnaire's complex cuisine: delicately fried scampi with minted crawfish, or coquilles St. Jacques with crisp turnips. 33-1/45-44-73-73; dinner for two $143.
VINO DI ZANOTTI, BANGKOK In the frenetic Thai capital, bankers, diplomats, and the style crowd get their fix of cucina italiana by ordering tapas and pasta beneath Luigi Rinciotti paintings at this bistro and jazz bar. 66-1/937-1178; dinner for two $40.
Vino di Zanotti
Vino di Zanotti is a traditional Italian restaurant set away from the hectic pace of the city in the countryside of Khao Yai. The restaurant has a traditional Naples oven for baking pizzas, but the menu also includes everything from mixed Italian cold cuts to strozzapreti in salsa d'agnello (handmade pasta in a creamy lamb sauce). A selection of Italian wines is availale, and guests can choose from four primary seating areas: the main dining room, the outdoor patio, the lounge, and the private dining room. There is live jazz music on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Gaya Rîve Gauche
More affordable than the cutting-edge chef's flagship restaurant, Pierre Gagnaire's Gaya Rive Gauche is a fish house in Saint-Germain renovated in the minimalist style typical of high-end 21st-century eateries. Attracting a fashionable crowd — French political figures, high-fashion models, and local business people may all be in residence — GRG (as it's called) is exclusively seafood-centric. Traditional fish plates are joined by inventive selections like oysters with foie gras, carpaccio of sea bass with sea snails, and the chef's signature tuna and prosciutto sandwich on brioche.