Ata time when everyone’s a stickler for provenance, the wine atelier O Château has struck a chord with itswine-and-tapas bar concept on the Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau near Les Halles.The concept, in addition to regularly scheduled wine tastings, is to offer aselection of exceptional wines by the glass. The house wine list offers 500varieties (!) from around the world, with a selection of 40 wines by the glass (!) featured daily. Adding to the charm is the location: this landmark building wasonce a hotel particulier belonging to Madame Pompadour. A more recent claim tofame is that the chef, Tiffany Depardieu, was recently a contestant on Top Chef. An ideallocation and great excuse, as if any were needed, to get to know your Latoursfrom your Margaux. 68 rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, 1st. tel 33-1/44 73 97 80.

Tina Isaac is Travel+ Leisure’s Paris correspondent.