They must put crack in the fried chicken at Gus's in Memphis. My sister has lived there for years and has always gone on and on about this place. Whenever I'd visit from New York, I wanted real Southern barbecue, whether the Bar-B-Q Shop or the Three Little Pigs. But last month, she insisted. So I went. And I'm a total convert.

Order a family style platter—the meat is beyond juicy, the skin is coated with spice (they ain't telling what) and deep fried to an ethereal crisp. Texas toast rounds the meal out. You can get sides if you want, but why bother? Just order more chicken. 310 S. Front St.; 901/527-4877; lunch for two $25.

Clark Mitchell is an associate editor at Travel + Leisure.

Photos courtesy of Clark Mitchell.