The 27 rooms in this new hotel, once a boardinghouse for cigar vendors, on a quiet section of San Antonio's River Walk, are so rich in detail they feel lived in -- lived in by a more romantic and adventurous version of someone like you. The two-story penthouse has a king-size bed with Paris streetlamps for posts, and a rosewood armoire made for an Indian palace. Rattan suitcases piled high in the lobby look as if they've circumnavigated the globe a few times. And hanging everywhere are turn-of-the-century photographs of people you could imagine as family: the sugarcane baron, the great-aunt who used to tell you about her travels to Borneo. There's a broad terrace on each of the three floors, a cigar bar in the basement, and next door, the inn's just-opened restaurant, Azucena, which will deliver wild-rice waffles or salmon with lavender sauce direct to your haven.

HAVANA RIVERWALK INN, 1015 Navarro St.; 210/222-2008, fax 210/222-2717; rooms from $110, suites from $225.