Generations-old businesses mix gracefully with artisanal-minded newcomers on the Rue des Martyrs. Here, a guide to the best of both.

By Elaine Sciolino
October 14, 2015
Credit: Marie Hennechart


Cabaret Michou

A pillar of the Montmartre community, Michou has hosted everyone from Liza Minnelli to Jacques Chirac in his drag cabaret. 80 Rue des Martyrs; cover charge starts at $37.

Fromagerie Chataigner

Yves Chataigner and his wife, Annick, have run their small shop for 50 years. 3 Rue des Martyrs.

Gillery Laurence

Gillery is one of the only remaining mercury-barometer specialists in Paris. Her workshop is a veritable museum. 97 Rue des Martyrs.

Guy Lellouche

Stunning antique furniture, artwork, and jewelry just off the Rue des Martyrs. 6 Rue Notre Dame de Lorette.

Librairie Vendredi

For a hundred years, there’s been a bookstore at this address. Stop by to get in touch with your inner existentialist. 67 Rue des Martyrs.



New York native Martine Chanin stocks many surprises in her secondhand-clothing shop. 100 Rue des Martyrs.

Emmanuelle Zysman

This artisan jeweler handcrafts a wide range of designs for both men and women, including personalized engraved charms and rings. 81 Rue des Martyrs.

Famille Mary

Apiculturists who offer honey-based everything: candles, lotion, tea, nougat, and pollen grains. 30 Rue des Martyrs.

Pâtisserie des Martyrs

Sébastien Gaudard Second-generation owner Sébastien Gaudard was voted the best pastry chef in Paris in 2012. 22 Rue des Martyrs.

RAP Épicerie

Italian specialties like cotechino charcuterie, sweet lemons from Syracuse, and perhaps the best cannoli in Paris. 4 Rue Fléchier.