Barrio Bellavista, Santiago's rowdy bohemian enclave of artists' studios and bars, is now welcoming a more refined crowd. Here, where to find the best of the area. CULTURE La Chascona museum (0192 Fernando Márquez de la Plata; 56-2/777-8741), in the former weekend house of Chile's favorite son, Pablo Neruda, displays the poet's paintings and awards—among them, a Nobel Prize for Literature. SHOP Downy alpaca shawls, wooden bowls, andsilver-and-lapis lazuli jewelry are showcased in the loftlike handicraft gallery ArtesanI´as de Chile (0357 Avda. Bellavista; 56-2/777-9429). EAT Prime people-watching takes place on the balcony of the German-owned Piola (0270 Constitución; 56-2/732-8082; dinner for two $25), where Wiener schnitzel successfully coexists with sushi. • At La Mesa del Mundo (0143 Dardignac; 56-2/737-4125; dinner for two $45), atún Rapa Nui, a ceviche made with top-grade tuna flown in daily from Easter Island—2,200 miles away—is served on Polynesian tables. • Restaurant 125 (025 Constitución; 56-2/738-2481; dinner for two $22), sister to the celebrity-studded bar, Galindo (098 Dardignac; 56-2/777-0166), hypes Chilean standards like pastel de jaiba (crab pie) on its chalkboard menu. AFTER DARK The young and genteel spend happy hour in Mabruk (0195 Dardignac; 56-2/732-0034), a bar with a live DJ, while oenophiles crowd Sommelier (0163 Dardignac; 56-2/732-5548) for its list of 40 libations by the glass.
—Connie McCabe

La Mesa del Mundo


Restaurant 125