french bliss
Hotelier Grace Leo-Andrieu, who transformed Paris's Hotel Montalembert and Le Toiny on St. Barts into stylish enclaves, has once again worked magic—this time at the Lancaster, a 19th-century town-house hotel near the Arc de Triomphe. Her $4 million makeover adds modern touches, such as Christian Liaigre's purple sofas and orange chairs, to the hotel's famous antiques collection. Each of the 60 rooms has its own charm: in the Marlene Dietrich suite, the walls are painted her favorite shade. Noël Coward and Greta Garbo stayed at the Lancaster in its heyday, and Leo-Andrieu aims to continue attracting celebrities who prefer grown-up glamour to glitz. Hotel Lancaster, 7 Rue de Berri, Paris; 800/447-7462 or 33-1/40-76-40-76; doubles from $395.—Susan Ward Davies

Trends . . . Shopping . . . Books. . . Hotels . . .

seen on the slopes
There's new competition for downhill time: tubing has hit ski resorts from Killington to Whistler. But trust Vail to put a tony spin on this fad favored by Gen X powder hounds. The resort's new Adventure Ridge at Eagle's Nest has a tubing slope with dedicated attendants, groomed runs, and a ground lift that tows you in your tube. For $12 an hour, anyone can bust some moguls. Radical riders wait until dark—the graded lanes are open until 9 p.m.—and slide down headfirst. Want to whip up a storm on a local hill? Order your own snow floater from Wicked Fun Time 508/388-5788, ext. 101; $58), which sells models with handles and tow ropes, covered in neon vinyl. —Shane Mitchell

Kelly Christy, who's been dreaming up toppers and toques since she was a child in Des Moines, has just opened a New York boutique that's already drawing a following. Made to measure from organza, wool, or faux beaver fur, each hat has a sassy name: a Jackie-inspired pillbox called O,a lavender bowler named Pimp, and Cherry Swirl, a fruit-covered skullcap that Bette Midler couldn't resist. Kelly Christy, 235 Elizabeth St.; 212/965-0686; hats $100-$500.—Elizabeth Garnsey

a stirring read
Europe-bound caffeine addicts will love Lori Shafton's new Coffeehouses of Prague (Prague Press, $16.95), with maps, menus, and tales of the nation-altering history that has taken place in these haunts. Plenty of journal .Kimberly Robinson

Once an aristocratic playground, the Grand Hotel Imperial, in the northern Italian spa town of Levico Terme, has been restored to its days-of-Hapsburg glory. The villa's reopening heralds the return of the old-world tradition of taking the waters,with Turkish baths and swimming pools fed by thermal springs. Grand Hotel Imperial, 1 Terme Via Silva Domini; 39-461/706-104; doubles from $60. —Anya von Bremzen

Restaurants . . . Inns . . . Exhibitions . . . Fragrances . . .

made in miami
The current is flowing in reverse on Miami's dining scene: South Beach hot spots are branching out to the mainland. The News Café now has a Coconut Grove outpost, and Pacific Time just opened a smart spinoff, Pacific Heights, in Coral Gables. There, executive chef Jonathan Eiseman and chef de cuisine Frank Gianetti have shifted the culinary outlook from Pacific TimeÜhonored fusion to American standbys: macaroni and cheese, pork chops, even key lime baked Alaska. Pacific Heights, 2530 Ponce de Leon Blvd.; 305/461-1774; dinner for two $60.—Richard Alleman

a moroccan secret
Walking down Derb Hajra, a narrow dirt road in Marrakesh, you'd never know the splendor that lies behind the wooden doors at number 29. Inside the 100-year-old building is Dar al Assad, a new bed-and-breakfast. Lemon trees fill the courtyard; Sri Lankan armoires and Andalusian copper beds decorate the three guest rooms. Views from the rooftop terrace stretch past the old city to the Atlas Mountains. Dar al Assad, 29 Derb Hajra; 212-4/427-065; doubles $100. —Jean Nathan

scent to go
The screw cap on Quercus, the latest from Penhaligon's—a company known for its precious glass stoppers—makes it great for travel. And the clean, citrusy cologne can be worn by both women and men. Prices: $36-$81, at select Saks Fifth Avenue stores or by mail. Call 800/588-1992.—Martine Bury

The city of Naples, Florida, has hired a street concierge, who can call you a taxi or limousine,store your shopping bags or have them sent to your hotel, set up a fishing trip, and even lend you an umbrella if it's raining. Talk about service.

Titanic fascination is reaching new levels,with a Broadway musical opening in April,a summer movie directed by James Cameron,and an exhibition of the largest collection of ship artifacts, on display starting April 3 at the Pyramid in Memphis (800/263-6744 for tickets).

Restaurants . . . Fashion . . . Resorts . . .

a manhattan manor
The Livingstons were patroons, as were the Roosevelts. And now Ken Aretsky joins the ranks with his new restaurant and cigar bar, Patroon (from a Dutch colonial word for the owner of a manor), inspired by Harry's Bar in London. Co-founder of Arcadia, Aretsky is well suited to the position, hopping from table to table and overseeing the robust offerings—wood-grilled Porterhouse steaks, chicken roasted on a spit, mushroom risotto. Patroon, 160 E. 46th St.; 212/883-7373; dinner for two $110.—J.N.

maya pleasure
Hacienda Katanchel is the latest discovery in the land of the Maya. The 17th-century cattle farm on the site of an ancient ruin outside Mérida, in Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, was shrouded by jungle until an architect and a botanist converted it into a 39-suite hotel. There's a swimming pool and 33 plunge pools, but the most spectacular scenery was left behind by the former owners: a pyramid. Hacienda Katanchel, Yucatán; 800/223-6510 or 52-99/200-997; doubles from $300.—L.B.

over the shoulder
This spring's snappiest accessories, created by The Sak, come in an array of bold colors and sumptuous neutrals—and a range of shapes and sizes. The backpacks, totes, and cosmetics bags, hand-crocheted, with an inside pocket, are easy to care for, so it's a breeze to keep up appearances on the go. Prices: $15- $75.

By Anya von BremzenElizabeth GarnseyJean NathanKimberly RobinsonMartine BuryRichard AllemanShane Mitchell and Susan Davies