On the back roads of Kauai, Bonnie Tsui discovers out-of-the-way trails, dramatic waterfalls, secluded beaches, and heavenly regional food
Tammy Kennedy & Brett Panelli Stickers adorn a stop sign near Polihale Beach

In Hawaii, it used to be that you could tell a haole (foreigner) from a kamaaina (local) by the kind of car he drove—or so says my friend Ken. He grew up in Honolulu, where the curving beachside roads were lined with beat-up surfer cars. A polished new sedan said "Just arrived," while an old VW surfmobile said "Any car that works is fine, man..." That laid-back mentality was, to me, what Hawaii was all about.

When we first started cruising the roads together, Ken and I drove around in a forest green 1974 Porsche 914. The years had not been kind to the car; Hawaii's damp air and salty sea-spray had rusted it virtually into the ground. But it still ran, so we tooled around Oahu in scruffy style. I loved impersonating a local—riding in a car with character, a plumeria blossom behind my ear, my brown skin and Chinese heritage making it easy for me to blend into Hawaii's characteristic hapa ("half") culture, located at that Pacific crossroads between East and West.

Any time we ventured to other islands, choosing a rental car was always an interesting social experiment. No matter how basic the vehicle, we always felt we were cheating if it had automatic windows or a CD player. In a place where you often spent all day in your bathing suit, a battered wreck was just what you needed.

Our last visit to Kauai was a blur of people and touristy areas; we'd brought friends along for a fast weekend holiday that I barely recall. But on our present pilgrimage—a circumnavigation of the island, from Lihue to the northern coast and then back around to the less traveled south shore—slow is the pace I want. That and the freedom to seek out all the things I might have missed on earlier trips, such as long empty beaches and farmers' markets selling my favorite regional foods. But we need a car that can off-road it, so Ken and I find ourselves thinking long and hard at the rental counter in Lihue Airport.

We opt for a Jeep Wrangler, walking a fine line between tourist and local with a current-model four-wheel-drive, and head north and inland on Highway 583 toward Wailua Falls. This is where the opening sequence of Fantasy Island was shot, and there's certainly plenty of drama in the 80-foot waterfall. We decide that the best part is not the falls itself, but the getting there: losing ourselves in miles of sugarcane fields, feeling Lilliputian when we are engulfed by the glinting shafts of green and gold.

Over 90 percent of Kauai is inaccessible by road, a paradise for hikers and adventurous drivers like us. The island is also the oldest in the Hawaiian archipelago, and it's still possible to find places that are straight out of Jurassic Park (Steven Spielberg, no dummy, actually cast Kauai in the film's title role). Lava tubes spout like blowholes on the shore, huge banyan trees dwarf even the tallest person, and, at the center of Kauai, Mount Waialeale is one of the wettest spots on earth (it averages 440 inches of rain a year).

Ken and I soon realize that we're going to operate as usual on this trek, which means we'll stop for any number of things: roadside guava and lychee stands, an impulsive bodysurfing session, a really good shave ice. Backtracking to the Kuhio Highway, or 56, the main road around northern Kauai, we continue up into the town of Wailua. Thousands of palm trees line the side of the road, trunks perfectly parallel while their spiky, leafy heads nod vigorously in the slanted sunlight in seeming approval of our carefree, meandering route.

When we drive inland on Kuamoo Road, we encounter the end of the blacktop and get our first chance to see what our four-wheel-drive can do. With nothing more than a throaty rumble, our little maroon Wrangler shuttles us easily over slippery tracks and through two stream crossings to where we can survey the Powerline Trail (originally cut by the island's electric company in the early 1900's, the Powerline runs through 10 miles of wilderness that stretch to the north shore).

Around 4 p.m., we stop for a late lunch in Kapaa, a sugarcane and pineapple workers' town. At under $10, the Mermaid's Café's delicious ahi nori wraps—seared ahi in a spinach tortilla brimming with seaweed and rice in wasabi mayonnaise—are the best deal on the island. We sit at picnic tables outside, watching the pau hana ("quit work") traffic. A man in a pickup truck motions to another with the shaka sign, thumb and pinkie extended, the regional hand signal for hanging loose. Things tend to move slowly on Kauai, and as the cars inch by, we're reminded that that's the way the locals like it.

We stay the night at Kakalina's, a quiet B&B on a working tropical-flower farm in Kapaa, in the foothills of Mount Waialeale. Kakalina's three acres of grounds are covered in luxuriant gardens filled with papaya and banana trees, red ti plants, wild Hawaiian ginger, and puakenikeni trees with fragrant yellow blossoms. The inn's location turns out to be the ideal launch point for an early morning hike on the little-trod Hoopii Trail. Two miles down the mountain, at the end of Kapahi Road, we pass through a yellow gate at the trailhead into a dim, eerie world of giant ferns and monstrosa vines—parasitic plants that strangle the trees they climb. We also spot some koa trees, rare Hawaiian trees valued for their gold-red wood. Ken charges ahead in his shorts and T-shirt; I, properly fearful of mosquitoes, am protected by jeans, long sleeves, and head-to-toe bug repellent. We hike in otherworldly quiet for just an hour and a half, but in my head the journey takes on a timeless quality. Above, the barely visible blue sky is interwoven with a canopy of leafy greens and twinkling yellows; when I close my eyes, the colors bloom behind my eyelids.

An hour later, we're back on the Kuhio Highway, cruising 25 miles up the coast to Hanalei, when we spy the Wishing Well shave-ice truck. How to describe this classic Hawaiian treat?A perfect one is lavish and soupy, a concoction of snowy ice shavings doused with flavored syrup, swimming in ice cream and sweet red adzuki beans. I choose a scoop of Hawaiian snow flavored with lilikoi (passion fruit) and lihi mui (preserved plum), thick ice cream, and a mash of beans. Hawaiian shave ice recalls Chinese-style red-bean ices, imported by the Japanese and given a tropical-island twist; if the Wishing Well's mix isn't perfect, it's pretty close.

In the same parking lot is Tropical Taco; once similarly housed in a green catering truck, it's now a small café, which still serves fresh fish tacos piled with avocado, salsa, and sour cream.

At Hanalei, we spend a blissful afternoon snorkeling, then check into the luxurious Princeville Resort (where the infinity pool has its own full-service bar). The next morning we drive back south. Every sign on Highway 56 casts a lure: FRIED BANANA CHIPS, FRESH PAPAYA SHAKES, MALASADAS. We can't resist stopping along the road for a bag of the last—six sizable fried-dough balls dusted with sugar and cinnamon. Though something as prosaic as a gallon of milk might cost $6 on Kauai, a few bucks can get you a pound of lychees, a fried ono (wahoo) sandwich, or a pound of Koloa coffee beans straight from the plantation. Forty miles from Hanalei, on the opposite side of the island, Koloa is home to Poipu Plantation Resort, a series of small cottages just a short walk from the famous golden beaches of Poipu. We stay overnight and at breakfast the next morning we eat fresh mango and papaya plucked from backyard trees.

We leave Koloa and drive 10 miles to Hanapepe, the self-proclaimed "biggest little town in Kauai," where we find ripe piles of apple bananas, guavas, mountain apples, kale, and kabocha squash (Japanese pumpkin) at the Thursday farmers' market. It's also where we discover a blink-and-you'll-miss-it wooden storefront on the way out of town, marked only with an intriguing sign: TARO CHIP FACTORY. When we pull over to see what kind of factory could fit into that tiny little space, we discover an equally tiny, elderly Asian lady hand-frying and bagging colorful taro and sweet-potato chips. We carefully sample each variety of chip before deciding on the classic, red-speckled taro. The chip maker frowns enigmatically as she watches us, then nods almost imperceptibly when we exchange money for her crunchy snacks. Not a word has been spoken, but Ken and I both feel as if we've been let in on a big secret.

Fingers dotted with salty taro chip crumbs, we drive northwest on Highway 50 as far as we can go, down a five-mile dirt road pitted with deep holes and slick with mud. We see a Chevy convertible stuck in a ditch, wheels spinning helplessly—a two-wheel-drive rental car thwarted in a foolish attempt to tackle an unpaved trail. But we brave the tooth-rattling ride ourselves with a clear destination in mind: the 17-mile stretch of white-sand beach that is Polihale State Park. On Polihale, backed by the striking vertical cliffs of the Na Pali coast, hundred-foot dunes stack up in floury drifts, and waves roar in over the reef with gusto. We jump out of the car and tear down the deserted expanse of sand to the water. The greenish-blue curls of the ocean crash over us, and it's here, with not another soul around for miles, that we feel closest to Hawaii.

And so on to our final destination, Waimea Bay. Ken and I stay the night at the historic Waimea Plantation Cottages, where restored beach houses face glittering black-sand beaches and rows of soaring palms. Our last morning on Kauai is spent taking in the views at Waimea Canyon. That afternoon, we drive to Kalapaki, a touristy beach five minutes from Lihue Airport. We sit cross-legged in the sand, watching shirtless spring-breakers toss footballs and couples in aloha shirts drink beer after beer at the beachside bar.

But something else gets our attention: local kids in outrigger canoes are beaching their boats on the shore at 10-minute intervals. We're mesmerized by their muscular coordination, the sureness of their movements, the concentration on their suntanned faces. Their instructor, a wiry man with a mustache, barks orders while helping to pull in boats. Once the paddlers have hauled the fiberglass hulls far enough up the sand that they won't be washed away, their faces break into loose grins and they're kids again, jostling each other and trying to pull down one another's shorts. Even in this most commercial of places on the island, an authentic local flavor can be found. And you don't have to drive far to find it.

Day 1: 40 miles Fly into Lihue. From the airport, take 583 (Maalo Road) northwest to Wailua Falls. Backtrack to 56 (Kuhio Highway) and head north to the towns of Wailua and Kapaa. Make a left on 580 (Kuamoo Road) for the Powerline Trail. Return to Kapaa on 56 north and stay at Kakalina's (see The Facts).

Day 2: 50 miles Drive almost two miles down Kawaihau Road toward the ocean and make a left on Kapahi Road for a hike on the Hoopii Trail. Later, take 56 north through Kilauea, Princeville, and Hanalei. Spend the night at the Princeville Resort.

Day 3: 50 miles Head south on 56, turning onto 530 (Koloa Road), which takes you through Koloa, the famous coffee town (Kauai is Hawaii's biggest coffee producer). Make a right onto 520 and head south to the town of Poipu; stay at Poipu Plantation Resort.

Day 4: 45 miles Head west to 50 (Kaumualii Highway), passing through Hanapepe, Waimea, and Kekaha. Follow the road to the end of the highway; after you pass mile marker 32, you'll connect with the first dirt road to reach Polihale State Park. Head back east on 50 to Waimea for an overnight at Waimea Plantation Cottages.

Day 5: 50 miles Head up to Waimea Canyon on 550 north, then backtrack east on 50 all the way to Lihue.


BEST VALUE Kakalina's Bed & Breakfast DOUBLES FROM $75. 6781 KAWAIHAU RD., KAPAA; 808/822-2328; www.kakalina.com
Princeville Resort DOUBLES FROM $500. 5520 KA HAKU RD., PRINCEVILLE; 800/325-3589; www.princeville.com
Poipu Plantation Resort DOUBLES FROM $99. 1792 PEE RD., KOLOA; 800/634-0263; www.poipubeach.com
Waimea Plantation Cottages DOUBLES FROM $190. 9400 KAUMUALII HWY., WAIMEA; 800/992-4632; www.waimea-plantation.com


Mermaid's Café LUNCH FOR TWO $20. 4-1384 KUHIO HWY., KAPAA; 808/821-2026
Wishing Well Shave Ice LARGE SHAVE ICE $3.50. KUHIO HWY., HANALEI; 808/639-0801
Tropical Taco LUNCH FOR TWO $10. 5088 KUHIO HWY., HANALEI; 808/827-8226
Taro Ko FarmCHIPS $2.50 PER BAG. 3940 HANAPEPE RD., HANAPEPE; 808/335-5586


Yellowfish Trading Co. 1920's to 1970's Hawaiiana. 5-5161 KUHIO HWY., HANALEI; 808/826-1227
Kong Lung Co. Upscale Pacific Rim imports (clothing, books, housewares). LIGHTHOUSE RD., KILAUEA; 808/828-1822


The The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook - Kauai Revealed ($15, Wizard Publications) has plenty of insider tips and clear, easy-to-read maps.

Mermaids Café

Fresh wraps made with local produce are the specialty at Mermaids Café, a small, cash-only roadside stand located on Kuhio Highway in Kapaa. The bright blue and yellow café has a handful of outdoor tables surrounded by planters and an ocean-themed mural. Incorporating island and pan-Asian flavors, the lunch and dinner plates are generously portioned and include a variety of vegetarian options. Top sellers include the chicken coconut curry and the ahi nori (seaweed) wrap with rice, cucumber, wasabi cream, and picked ginger. Also popular are the hibiscus iced tea and the Thai iced tea sweetened with coconut milk.

Tropical Taco

What started out as a taco wagon, this eatery evolved after many years into a fixed restaurant in the Halele'a Building about a mile from the Hanalei Bridge on Kuhio Highway. Serving lunch and dinner every day except Sunday, Tropical Taco has indoor tables in its white-and-wood interior with an outline of the original taco wagon surrounding the lunch counter, and outdoor seating on the veranda. Tacos, burritos, and Fat Jacks (10-inch wraps) are served with lemonade and soda. Fish tacos come with local fish grilled or beer-batter fried.

Waimea Plantation Cottages

A former oceanfront sugar plantation on the western side of Hawaii's "Garden Isle" is a perfect base-camp for travelers who want to explore Kauai's natural wonders, including the nearby Waimea Canyon and the geologically magnificent Na Pali Coast. The Waimea Plantation Cottages once housed plantation workers and have been renovated to retain their authentic Hawaiian roots: furnishings are made of wicker and rattan, and the upholsteries feature cheerful aloha prints. A hammock suspended between two palm trees offers the best seat to watch the sun set. With lanais and barbecue grills in each cottage, dining in is equally enjoyable.

Poipu Plantation Resort

Featuring a four-suite bed and breakfast in a 1938 plantation house plus nine vacation rental condo suites, Poipu Plantation resides among lush gardens on the south shore, within easy walking distance of Poipu and Brennecke’s photogenic beaches. B&B guests enjoy a full breakfast each morning featuring Kauai Estate Roast Coffee and island indulgences like apple, banana, and Macademia nut pancakes. Cottage-style condo guests have a full kitchen as well as a lanai, a living room, and large windows that permit sunshine and comfortable breezes. Dining, shopping, and recreational activities are within walking or driving distance, and the desk staff can assist with discount car rental.

Kakalina's Bed and Breakfast

Views of Mt. Waialeale and three acres of tropical flowers grown by owner/host Kathy Offley create a picturesque setting for the hillside Kakalina’s Bed & Breakfast in Kapa’a, not far from the airport in Lihue and the beach. The guest units feature woodwork by the late Bob Offley as well as kitchenettes, living rooms, and private bathrooms. Kathy helps with activity and dining arrangement, provides beach towels and mats, and will ship her tropical flowers to your home upon request.

St. Regis Princeville Resort

Unveiled in September 2009 after its conversion from a Starwood Luxury Collection property, this resort on Kauai’s North Shore borders two of Hawaii’s most famous golf courses (the Makai Golf Club and the Prince Course, which were both designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr.). In its new incarnation, however, the property now also offers enough amenities to tempt even the links-averse—including an 11,000-square-foot spa doling out taro-clay wraps and maile-oil massages; Kauai Grill, a Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant; a 5,000-square-foot infinity pool; and a sheltered beach good for snorkeling and for families. The 251 rooms—some of the largest on Kauai—are all gleamingly new and done up in pale blue and warm wood tones; Premium Ocean View rooms and suites overlook Hanalei Bay to Mt. Namolokama and, in the distance, Mt. Makana (famously depicted as Bali Hai in the South Pacific film).