By Nate Storey
May 27, 2014

Music City’s once-gritty 12 South district is on the rise, with 1920’s bungalows reimagined as locavore restaurants and stylish shops. T+L walks the line.

Go full Willy Wonka at Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream, an Ohio import where the wackadoodle flavors include Riesling-poached pear and goat cheese with red cherries. Worth two scoops: “biscuits & peach jam,” inspired by the classic dish at nearby Loveless Café. 2312 12th Ave. S.

Designer-to-the-stars Lauren Leonard (Taylor Swift and Giuliana Rancic are fans) finally has a flagship boutique, Leona, to showcase her colorful charmeuse shirtdresses and tweedy silk separates. Look for her new delicate jewelry line this summer. 2309 12th Ave. S.

Chef Andrew Little’s affinity for offal dishes and hyper-fresh produce makes Josephine the talk of adventurous locals, who vie for spots at the communal wooden tables. Our picks: beef cheeks with horseradish risotto and rosemary crumble or rabbit dumplings and country ham. 2316 12th Ave. S. $$

Frothy Monkey is the city’s cult coffeehouse for three reasons: an addictive caramel blend, indie-rock tunes, and shelves lined with crocheted simians. Go for the cinnamon-and-chili chocolate bars, but stay for the Prosecco on tap. 2509 12th Ave. S.

At this denim atelier—set in a refurbished gas station—Imogene & Willie’s (pictured) tattooed staff tailor jeans to your body and deliver them within a week. Accessorize your look with Warby Parker frames and distressed-leather trench boots. 2601 12th Ave. S.

As author of the eco-manifesto Chefs Can Save the World, Jeremy Barlow is evangelical about sustainable cooking. A highlight at his restaurant Sloco: the “Redneck Reuben,” an assemblage of corned pork shoulder, Swiss cheese, and crunchy caraway slaw. 2905 12th Ave. S. $$

Restaurant Pricing Guide
$ Less than $25
$$ $25 to $75
$$$ $75 to $150
$$$$ More than $150