This season both the Steamship Authority and Hy-Line Cruises are speeding visitors to Nantucket Island from Hyannis in an hour instead of the customary two. Great news for travelers, but where to go to escape your ferry mates?The oasis of choice is the Pineapple Inn, which opened last August. The 1838 Greek Revival sits three blocks from the ferry landing on a crooked little one-way street, and most of the lace-curtained windows look out on flower beds and trees. The 12 guest rooms, named after Nantucket whaling captains, are done in pure Colonial style, anchored by glorious four-poster canopy beds. Take breakfast on the surprisingly commodious garden patio (ask innkeepers Caroline and Bob Taylor to make their ginger scones), and while you're at it, have the Taylors point you to just the right beach, bike route, or block of whitewashed houses -- away from the crowds, of course.

PINEAPPLE INN, 10 Hussey St.; 508/228-9992; doubles $175- $250.