At this luxurious but low-key compound, guests share neither bathroom, fireplace (most of the seven rooms have their own whirlpool and woodburning hearth), nor the crowds of picturesque, tourist-packed Camden. The inn, an immaculately kept shingled house flanked by four cottages, sits four miles north of town, a quarter-mile down a gravel drive, and -- unlike any other B&B in the area -- directly on Penobscot Bay. So you can pull on one of the inn's thick robes, pick up a mug of hot coffee from the solarium, and dip your toes in icy salt water -- without ever crossing the road.

INN AT SUNRISE POINT, Fire Rd. 9 off Rte. 1, Camden, Maine; 800/435-6278 or 207/236-7716; doubles from $160; open May through October.