By Patrizia Chen
April 14, 2014

In the heart of Stockholm’s chic Östermalm district, Gastrologik dishes out refined new nordic cuisine.

“The potato is worth exactly as much as the truffle. It is not nature that decides what’s good or bad, it’s you and me.” When I read this quirky statement on the Gastrologik website, I knew I was in for a memorable dinner.

Run by chef-owners Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr, Gastrologik focuses on the restrained elegance of Scandinavian design (blond Danish wood; clean lines; handmade cutlery) and the freshest local ingredients. The six-course tasting menu is one of the most harmonious—extravagantly inventive, yet respectful of traditions—I’ve ever tasted. Crab might be served with sunchoke and horseradish cream, whipped, frozen, and grated on top; oysters, with birch-sap vinegar and ground-elder jelly. “A carrot in June does not taste the same as a carrot in September, and it would be a shame to cook it the same way,” Holmström explains. “You have to be able to change your menu every day. Our guests get a piece of paper reading, ‘Let today’s produce decide.’ Every dish is a surprise.”

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On any given night, the place hums with energy, as Stockholm’s plugged-in locals and visiting A-listers such as Hillary Clinton and Bruce Springsteen fill the two sleek rooms. Linus Andreen, CEO of Aristotracks—the leading Swedish record label and management firm—has chosen the restaurant as the place to celebrate the multi-platinum status of his artist Kim Cesarion. (The young pop star’s new single, “Undressed,” is set to hit the U.S. this summer.) Joining Andreen: music industry insiders Assia Grazioli-Venier, Arnthor Birgisson, Lukipop, and Sofia Ek; television host Emilia de Poret; and actress Sara Hagnö. “The restaurant still feels like a hidden gem,” Andreen says. “It’s the next Noma. We’re coming back in a few weeks—and we cannot wait.”

14 Artilleriegatan; $$$$

Appeared as “Discovery: Gastrologik” in T+L Magazine