It’s one of the most buzzed-about and eagerly anticipated hotel openings across the pond: London’s iconic St. Pancras railway station has reinvented itself as a sumptuous new Renaissance hotel, and last week unveiled The Gilbert Scott restaurant. Celebrated chef Marcus Wareing (of the Michelin two-starred Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley) derived inspiration for his second restaurant from both the historic building itself, as well as from dishes that are nearly 200 years old, but cooked with modern techniques.

Evocative of a British childhood, the fare is gourmet nursery food for the adult palate. Generations of Brits will come to the magnificent dining room (calling it a restaurant seems oddly sacrilegious) with its gilded, vaulted ceiling to savor the nostalgia. We were a table of six and ended up ordering all 10 puddings on the menu—gluttonous, but what a way to go!

Wareing himself stopped by our table for an extensive chat, and though he declined to choose his best dish (saying it would be like asking him which of his three children is his favorite), for my meal he recommended the delicious Queen Anne’s asparagus tart and Great Garnett’s Farm pork belly. I’m usually not a big fan of pork belly, but this was surprisingly light. I also tasted the Queen’s Pottage, a confection of chicken, mushrooms, and pistachio that had been cooked for 18 hours and was absolutely tender.

Named for the original architect of the 1873 structure, The Gilbert Scott is a true marriage of food and architecture. Finally, a restaurant where you can eat a British meal and not expire of carb overload!

Priyanka Gill is a London-based blogger and journalist. Visit her website here.