By Gisela Williams
November 28, 2013

With East Berlin certifiably yuppified, locals are moving back to the old West. The epicenter? This former hotbed of counterculture.

Gallerist Johann König has resurrected St. Agnes, a Brutalist-style Catholic church and an adjacent community center, transforming them into dramatic art spaces (a café will open next year). Now on view: interactive sculptures by Berlin-based artist Jeppe Hein. 118-121 Alexandrinenstrasse.

Set in an old locksmith’s shop in the legendary SO36 district—where punks, artists, and Turkish immigrants settled in the 1970’s—the ambitious concept store Voo carries a cool mix of clothing (vintage Missoni; sharply cut jackets from local brand Don’t Shoot the Messenger). 24 Oranienstrasse.

Berliners love their Chinese food—and Long March Canteen, a stylish new dim-sum den, has caught their attention. An open kitchen, communal tables, and neon lights set the stage for inventive small plates; try the sweet pork dumplings and ox-cheek carpaccio infused with chile and cinnamon. 20 Wrangelstrasse. $$$

On Thursday nights, follow the foodies to the revived 1891 Markthalle Neun (pictured) for its recently launched street-food fair. Our pick: the handmade Käsespätzle from Heisser Hobel, the city’s first spaetzle truck. 42 Eisenbahnstrasse.

Former painter Hans Richard lends an artful flair to his intimate Restaurant Richard. The self-taught chef turns out dishes such as veal sweetbreads with sunchoke-and-mushroom mousse and a sculptural sour-plum cake—all served under a carved wooden ceiling and chandeliers made from blown-glass bubbles. 174 Köpenicker Str. $$$

Restaurant Pricing Key
$ Less than $25
$$ $25 to $75
$$$ $75 to $150
$$$$ More than $150