What's new now

Tetsuya Miura

There has never been a better time to go to Asia. The continent is thriving, welcoming travelers with new nonstop flights and low-cost airlines, new places to stay and things to do—all for less, thanks to favorable exchange rates, especially when compared to Europe. We've gathered all the latest information: just-opened hotels; the hottest shopping districts; gallery and museum openings; and restaurants. So whether you're looking for a stylish city hotel in Hong Kong or an inspired dinner spot in Bali, it's here. Plus: Tours, guides, deals, and everything else you could possibly need to plan a trip to the Far East, right now.Hotels

TOKYO In Roppongi Hills, Tokyo's innovative urban development project, the Grand Hyatt (6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; 800/223-1234 or 81-3/4333-1234; tokyo.grand.hyatt.com/; doubles from $440) is a bastion of 21st-centuryingenuity. Therooms may not be especially large, but they come with pleasant touches like heated toilet seats and remote-controlled blackout shades. Open them and awake to eye-popping views of Mount Fuji before eating breakfast at any of the property's excellent restaurants.

With a mere 11 rooms spread over 10 floors, Yoshimizu (3-11-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku; 81-3/3248-4432; www.yoshimizu.com; doubles from $254) is a modern take on a traditional Japanese ryokan. The sister hotel to the well-known Yoshimizu Kyoto, this Ginza branch is tucked away from the neighborhood's busy streets. Tatami mat floors and futons are part of the ryokan experience—as are the shared bathrooms (which include a pair of antique-style baths in cedar and stone, located on the inn's top floor).

SEOUL W Hotels makes its Asian debut with the W Seoul-Walkerhill (21 Kwangjang-Dong, Kwangjin-Gu; 877/946-8357 or 82-2/465-2222; www.whotels.com; doubles from $265). Situated on Mount Acha, the hotel has 253 rooms and suites and a massive 50,000-square-foot spa with a Turkish bath and 21 treatment rooms. Three restaurants and the super-sized Woo Bar compete for guests' downtime.

HONG KONG A decade ago, designer Philippe Starck reinvigorated Hong Kong nightlife with the raucous interiors of Felix, the supper club atop the Peninsula hotel. Now Starck has picked up where he left off with the 25-floor Jia (1-5 Irving St., Causeway Bay; 852/3196-9000; www.jiahongkong.com; doubles from $250). Jia means "home" in Mandarin, and its quarters consist of 57 full-service apartments with the designer's typically whimsical interiors; guests can relax on one of two public sundecks.

Also new in Hong Kong is Le Méridien Cyberport (100 Cyberport Rd.; 800/543-4300 or 852/2980-7788; www.lemeridien.com; doubles from $165), in the territory's "digital city" development. The hotel is high-tech and business-friendly, with everything from 42-inch plasma TV's to wireless broadband access to gadgets like custom-programmed Apple iPods in the fitness center.

BEIJING The Peninsula Palace (8 Goldfish Lane, Wangfujing; 800/223-6800 or 86-10/8516-2888; www.peninsula.com; doubles from $320) is not new, but the hotel recently completed a $27 million renovationand announced a name change: it has revamped all 530 rooms and suites, expanded its luxury lobby arcade to more than 50 boutiques, and inaugurated Huang Ting, a Cantonese restaurant with an interior modeled after that of a Qing dynasty palace.

BANGKOK The Metropolitan (27 S. Sathorn Rd., Tungmahamek, Sathorn; 800/337-4685 or 66-2/625-3333; www.metropolitan.com.bz; doubles from $300)—sister to the London hotel of the same name—was built in a former YMCA in the embassy district, as incongruous as that might sound. The 171-room property is a chic alternative to the capital's classic hotel standbys: rooms come with Bose stereos, limestone bathrooms, and platform beds; the staff is decked out in Yohji Yamamoto.

GOLDEN TRIANGLE On the banks of the mighty Mekong River at the meeting point of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos is the new Anantara Resort & Spa Golden Triangle (229 Moo 1, Chiang Saen; 66-24/770-760; www.anantara.com; doubles from $170). The Zen-luxe retreat, near the Thai town of Chiang Saen, unabashedly makes the most of its location. Each of the 90 rooms includes a balcony with a canopied daybed for prime tri-cultural vistas. The Anantara's spa has five treatment rooms, equipped with both Thai massage platforms and private outdoor decks. The Mekong plays host to scenic river rides on long-tail boats, and the resort's nearby elephant camp, affiliated with Thailand's Elephant Conservation Center, offersriding courses. There's also a Thai cooking school, along with two restaurants and a bar.

KO SAMUI Amid the cashew, coconut, and palm groves on the northern coast of this Thai island stands Pansea Napasai Samui (65/10 Ban Tai, Maenam; 800/237-1236 or 66-77/ 429-200; www.pansea.com; doubles from $280). The small, low-key beach resort's rooms, villas, and cottages have light, whitewashed furniture and wooden floors and walls. A spa, Euro-Asian restaurant, pool, tennis courts, and diving facilities are all on-site or nearby; the seafront villas are also available for purchase.

SINGAPORE The tiny red lanterns and low-cost snack shops running along Singapore's Keong Saik Road recall its Red Light-district past, but with the opening of Hotel 1929 (50 Keong Saik Rd.; 65/6347-1929; www.hotel1929.com; doubles from $79), the area is earning a more sophisticated reputation. Built into five landmark buildings, the 32-room property is colonial in style on the outside, pure Mid-Century Modern within. The hotel is named after the year of its original construction, and the owner has filled the small rooms with big-name design details—from Verner Panton, Arne Jacobsen, and Eames furniture to Marimekko fabrics on the beds. Suites have private terraces and outdoor bathtubs.

ANGKOR Although best known for its intimate properties in Bali and Thailand, Sanctuary Resorts is making its mark in Siem Reap, Cambodia, the gateway to the legendary Angkor Wat temple. Shinta Mani (Oum Khum St. at 14th St.; 855-63/761-998; www.sanctuaryresorts.com; doubles from $144), an 18-room urban spa oasis, has just opened, and another property is set to debut later this year. Located in the city's historic French Quarter, the hotel trains local at-risk youths at its Institute for Hospitality.

T+L Tip

The F1 Grand Prix, Shanghai

Celebrate the opening of China's first Formula One racing course with a three-night package at the Portman Ritz-Carlton in Shanghai, from $500.

Openings To Watch

The next few months will see a number of high-profile hotels debut in Asia—here's a look ahead.

THE PROPERTY Trisara, Phuket, Thailand

THE DETAILS Finished after nearly two years, the resortis densely landscaped with more than 150,000 plants cultivated on nearby fields. Each of the 33 one- and two-bedroom pavilions has a 33-foot pool and an oceanfront restaurant.


THE PROPERTY Uma Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

THE DETAILS Hotelier Christina Ong's latest venture has 29 rooms, villas, and suites—many with river views and all with plunge pools, garden terraces, and yoga mats. A Shambhala Spa and the Yoga Retreat Center deliver treatments.

OPENING This fall

THE PROPERTY Mandarin Oriental Dhara Devi, Chiang Mai, Thailand

THE DETAILS One hundred forty-two villas and suites on 52 lush acres—this is more a village than a resort. A pair of pools, a cooking school, and a spa designed like an ancient Burmese palace will appeal to sybarites, while the spiritually inclined can meditate in the on-site temple.

OPENING Late this year

THE PROPERTY Four Seasons Langkawi, Malaysia

THE DETAILS Offering luxury among the sand dunes and towering palms, this resort's rooms will all have private outdoor showers and gardens. The 20 beachside villas will come with floor-to-ceiling glass walls and private pools, gardens, and spa treatment rooms.

OPENING Early 2005

Spa News

East meets West at Asia's latest hotel spas. HONG KONG The Inter-Continental's I-Spa (800/327-0200 or 852/2721-1211; www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com; treatments from $45) pairs Chinese herbal tea service with a state-of-the-art Lift 6 non-surgical face-lift from France. • Grand Hyatt's sleek Plateau retreat (800/233-1234 or 852/2584-7688; hongkong.grand.hyatt.com/hyatt/pure/spas/; treatments from $48) also favors Gallic beauty secrets—notably, a Talika eye freshener—but uses sandalwood-and-incense balm during a shiatsu massage. BANGKOK At Chi in the Shangri-La Hotel (800/942-5050 or 66-2/236-7777; www.shangri-la.com; treatments from $42), Himalayan barley enhances a Tibetan mountain tsampa body rub, and a Chinese Chi Nei Tsang massage focuses on abdominal energy points. PHUKET Thai massage is performed on an outdoor patio at Evason Phuket Resort & Six Senses Spa (949/640-1198; www.sixsenses.com; treatments from $23). KO SAMUI Marma-point and ayurvedic massage are on the menu at the Anantara Resort & Spa Koh Samui (66-2/477-0795; www.anantara.com; treatments from $84), a serene bamboo-and-slate retreat on the Gulf of Thailand. NHA TRANG Later this year, Vietnam's secondSix Senses Spa will premiere at the new Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara (949/640-1198; www.sixsenses.com; treatments from $30). SINGAPORE Kriya and Pranayama breathing techniques are taught by Indian yogis at the Oriental Spa at theOriental (800/526-6566 or 65/6338-0066; www.mandarinoriental.com; treatments from $60), which also imports nourishing E'SPA mud wraps from Britain.Shopping

TOKYO Roppongi Hills (Roppongi 6-chome, Minato-ku) is the city's latest shopping center, with everything from Yohji Yamamoto's Ron Arad-designed flagship store—complete with revolving floors—to White Trash Charms, which sells gold pendants shaped like pickup trucks and lightning bolts. • Six floors of shops and galleries make up Hpgrp (6-9-16 Ginza, Chuo-Ku; 81-3/5537-2740; www.hpgrp.com), an amusing fusion of art, interior design, and shopping in the heart of Ginza. Each level showcases a variety of sculpture, flower arrangements, jewelry, housewares, lamps, and furniture.

SEOUL In the Cheongdam-dong neighborhood, sleek and urbane Boon the Shop (82-3 Cheongdam-dong, Sandos Bldg., first floor, Gangnam-gu; 82-2/542-8006) and Mue (93-6 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2/3446-8074) are Seoul's fashion-forward boutiques for designs by Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons, and Manolo Blahnik. • The vast COEX Mall at Seoul's World Trade Center has Bandi & Luni's Bookstore, as well as a 16-screen cineplex and an aquarium.

HONG KONG In the Central district, the Landmark (12-16 Des Voeux Rd., Central) is a recently renovated luxury mall that's worth a visit, with its large, split-level Dior and Vuitton flagships. • Sino-style antiques, silk lan-terns, and other house- wares are reproduced with panache at Green Lantern (72 Peal St., Central; 852/2526-0277). • Leave time to check into G.O.D. (48 Hollywood Rd., Central; 852/2805-1876; www.god.com.hk); look for bold, multi-functional furniture, table linens, celadon ceramics, and streetwear. • Sandy Chung (Stall 413-414, Kansu St., Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon; 852/2771-0901) transforms pearls of every size, shape, and price into distinctive jewelry at her stall in the Jade Market. Be sure to phone ahead for an appointment.

BANGKOK The Thonglor neighborhood has become a beehive of retro-cool shops. Retail spaces of all forms are found at the new H1 complex (998 Sukhumvit Soi 55; 66-2/714-9578), which houses interior shops (try Anyroom), art bookstores (like Basheer), even an emporium of garden- ing tools (Geo). • Two blocks down, in a wildly colorful seventies-style bungalow called Kitsch by Chompol Serimont (57/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53; 66-2/662-5163; www.kitschykitsch.com), FIT graduate Serimont peddles his hip, retro-styled ready-to-wear lines for both men and women. • For silk pillows, rattan wine holders, and other housewares, head to Sop Moei Arts (49/9 Sukhumvit Soi 49; 66-2/712-8039; www.sopmoeiarts.com), which brings re-interpreted ethnic crafts from a hill tribe near the Burmese border to the big city.

SINGAPORE Chinatown has become Singapore's epicenter of interior design stores. Babuyo Furniture & Decoration (8 Ann Siang Hill; 65/6225-9036) sells Laotian textiles and Cambodian silk pillows, among other Southeast Asian imports. • Exit Design (83 Club St.; 65/6221-4998) specializes in Modernism and includes furniture by Eames and Vitra, as well as original pieces by the shop's owner. • The Touch House of Art & Design gallery (38 Bukit Pasoh Rd.; 65/6325-4990) stocks Scandinavian household objects.• Handsome modern teak furniture is displayed at the John Erdos Gallery (83 Kim Yam Rd.; 65/6735-3307; www.johnerdosgallery.com), a renovated 19th-century house where Erdos creates functional pieces from reclaimed Indonesian teak. • The center of Singapore fashion is Orchard Road, with no fewer than a dozen mega-malls carrying all the big names. The best of these is the recently redesigned Paragon (290 Orchard Rd.). Elsewhere, find antique maps of Asia at Antiques of the Orient (Tanglin Shopping Centre, second level, 19 Tanglin Rd.; 65/6734-9351) and Chinese antique furniture at Just Anthony (379 Upper Paya Lebar Rd.; 65/6283-4782; www.justanthony.com).

T+L Tip

Guided Shopping in China Hong Kong gallery owner Karin Weber runs a two-day antiquing trip (from $290 per person) to Dinghu, China, where a 40,000-square-foot warehouse is packed with artifacts.

Browsing at Night

Modern Thai ceramics and puppet theater are just a sampling of what's to be found at Suan Lum Night Bazaar in Bangkok (Witthayu and Rama IV Rds.; open 5:30 P.M.-12 A.M.). • Anything edible—from pressed duck to plum sauce—can be had at Singapore's Chinatown Food Street (Smith St.; open 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, until 1 A.M. Fridays). The streets off Smith are full of bric-a-brac: lacquer bowls, silk place mats, coconut-wood chopsticks.Culture

TOKYO The nine-gallery Mori Art Museum (Roppongi Hills; www.moriartscenter.com; 81-3/6404-6100) is not even a year old, yet it's already establishing itself as Tokyo's heart of contemporary culture. Part of the Roppongi Hills development, it was designed by New York-based architect Richard Gluckmanand features a teaching academy and an observation floor with 360-degree views of the city. A new exhibit, "Colors: Viktor & Rolf & KCI," examines 400 years of fashion history and runs through December 5.

SEOUL Fierce nationalism and pride in local culture merge with creativity to make Seoul a contender for art capital of Northeast Asia. At the city's center is the Kukje Gallery (59-1 Sokyuk-dong, Chongro-gu; 82-2/735-8449; www.kukjegallery.com), anchoring a cluster of exhibition spaces across fromthe Gyeongbokgung Palace. In addition to launching locals such as Lee Bul and exhibiting the work of more established figures like Bill Viola, the eye-catching three-story building serves as a magnet for Korean arts-types, with a trendy restaurant and a slick café for green tea espressos.

HONG KONG Think of it as culture, Hong Kong-style—the city now has an answer to Hollywood's Walk of Fame: the Avenue of Stars, in Tsim Sha Tsui. Besides honoring celluloid heroes such as actor Jackie Chan and director Wong Kar-Wai with plaques, it's part of a newly landscaped waterfront promenade that meanders from the Star Ferry past the InterContinental Hotel, offering stunning views of the Hong Kong skyline.

GOLDEN TRIANGLE The Mae Fah Luang Foundation has cut the ribbon on a unique, world-class museum: the Hall of Opium (Golden Triangle Park, Sop Ruak, Chiang Saen, Chiang Rai; 66-53/784-4446; www.goldentrianglepark.org). Housed in a series of caves in this mountainous region, it examines the centuries-old opium trade, withexhibits on the poppy flower and the Opium Wars, among others.

BANGKOK Theater and dance are the focus at the Patravadi Theatre (Soi Wat Rakang, Thonburi; 66-2/412-7287; www.patravaditheatre.com), where traditional forms such as the mask dance (khon) and other folk dances are explored along with more modern, experimental works. Friday and Saturday nights, the theater troupe performs dance works based on Thai literature on an open-air stage. Every April, the theater sponsors the Bangkok Fringe Festival, showcasing international performers.

SINGAPORE One hundred and seventy-seven years after it was built, Singapore's Old Parliament building has been renovated and turned into the Arts House (1 Old Parliament Lane; 65/6332-6900; www.theartshouse.com.sg). In its new incarnation, it functions as a cultural center, with performance spaces for theater and music, a screening room, and several bars and restaurants, including Café Society and Restaurant 1827 Thai, whose patios have views of downtown. • Designed by Briton Michael Wilford, the geodesic, spiky dome of Singapore's Esplanade Theatres on the Bay (65/6828-8377; www.esplanade.com) opened in October 2002. The multi-functional hall puts on every type of production imaginable, from hip-hop dance workshops to chamber music and classic Italian operas. The grounds include an outdoor arena for free concerts.

After Dark

SEOUL Korea's newest import—live jazz of all varieties—can be heard at the New York City club spin-off Blue Note Seoul (82-2/3477-0202; www.bluenote.jazz.co.kr). Also: check out the beautifully designed Tool Pub (125-16 Cheongdam-dong; 82-2/541-0122).

SHANGHAI The city trades neon lights for crimson banquettes and stiff drinks at JZ (639 Hua Shan Rd.; 86-21/6248-1118), while wallpaper made from green tea leaves contributes to the mellow vibe at the retro-Oriental Zenzibar (Xintiandi Plaza; 86-21/6385-6385).

BANGKOK The two-year-old Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi11; 66-2/651-3537) has been joined by a trio of new late-night joints luring energetic crowds. The very grown-up Distil (1055 Silom Rd.;66-2/624-9554), high on the 64th floor of the State Tower, has black wooden floors, chocolate- and coffee-toned leathers, and two circular bars: at one, cocktails are mixed; at the other, a chef shucks oysters that are flown in daily. Face (29 Sukhumvit Soi 38; 66-2/713-6048) is housed in wooden pavilions and filled with opium beds and Buddhist stone reliefs. Over at the Metropolitan hotel, Met Bar (275 S. Sathorn Rd.) has moody red lighting and one of Asia's more creative cocktail lists. But admission is for members and hotel guests only.

KUALA LUMPUR The city now has a nightlife landmark to match the Petronas Towers: architect Zaini Zainul's white, pod-shaped Zouk (113 Jalan Ampang; 60-3/2171-1997). Inside, the fashionable crowd flits among the private lounge Velvet Underground, the Wine Bar, with its Arabic mosaics, and the dance hall.

SINGAPORE Thanks to relaxed government laws passed this year, going all night is the theme in Singapore. Actors, designers, and brokers flock to Whitebait & Kale (1 Orchard Blvd., Camden Center; 65/6333-8697) for Brazilian beats, espresso martinis, and an outdoor patio that sits under the eaves of a Richard Meier-designed building.

Must-See Museums

Surrounded by serene gardens, Tokyo National Museum (13-9 Ueno Park, Taito-ku; 81-3/3822-1111; www.tnm.go.jp/en) has one of the most comprehensive collections of Asian art and artifacts in the hemisphere. The Honkan gallery, home to its Japanese works, reopens September 1. • Taiwan's National Palace Museum (221 Chih-shan Rd., Taipei; 886-2/2881-2021; www.npm.gov.tw) holds some 650,000 pieces of Chinese art, including Jadeite Cabbage with Insects, the famous Qing-era sculpture, and an incomparable collection of paintings. An exhibition of seldom-viewed Song dynasty works is being shown through December. • At the National Museum Bangkok (4 Na Phra That Rd.; 66-2/224-1333; www.thailandmuseum.com), carvings, fabrics, and other Thai crafts have been elevated to fine art. Rooms are filled with silks, jeweled pagodas, even an extravagant ivory chair, designed to fit atop an elephant. • Singapore's Asian Civilisations Museum (39 Armenian St.; 65/6332-7798; www.nhb.gov.sg) draws its inspiration from the Chinese, Malay, Indian, and European influences that form the backbone of modern Singapore.Restaurants

TOKYO Sens & Saveurs (35 Marunouchi Bldg., 2-4-1 Marunouchi; 81-3/ 5220-2701; dinner for two $55) may be the most dynamic foreign-born restaurant in Tokyo. Identical-twin chefs Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, from Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier, France, adapt their Mediterranean cuisine to Asian palates in dishes such as spider crab and avocado cornets with sesame-honey caramel. The brothers have taken their winning formula to Bang-kok, to the lounge and bistro D'Sens (Rama IV Rd.; 66-2/236-9999; dinner for two $45) atop the landmark Dusit Thani Hotel.

SEOUL Thanks to the arrival of Mr. Chow (91-6 Nonhuyn-dong, Kangnam-gu; 82-2/517-2100; dinner for two $120), Seoul's luminaries can now have the same no-menu, high-style gambol as their cousins in Los Angeles, London, and New York. Straightforward Mandarin dishes are presented in a spacious room with enormous flower arrangements.

HONG KONG The high-wattage social circuit makes haste each evening to Restaurant Isola (IFC Mall, Levels 3 and 4; 852/2383-8765; dinner for two $120) in the soaring, Cesar Pelli-designed IFC building. The duplex space is awash in white fabrics, has views over the harbor, and isgrand enough to afford some privacy. A trattoria-style menu and a blockbuster Italian wine list compete for attention with the guests, who linger way past normal bedtimes to drink Manhattansin the loftlike bar. • Aqua (1 Peking Rd., 29th and 30th floors, Kowloon; 852/3427-2288; dinner for two $90) unfurls three experiences in one amid a 9,000-square-foot penthouse with unobstructed views across Victoria Harbour. The lounge, Aqua Spirit, slings lychee Bellinis to a post-work crowd; a lipstick-red-lit and rail-thin sushi bar, Aqua Tokyo, turns out creative sashimi and izakaya (Japanese tapas); northern Italian roasts and handmade pasta are the focus of Aqua Roma, whose catwalk and velvet-lined banquettes make the night all about people-watching.

SAIGON La Niçoise (42 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1; 84-8/822-8613; dinner for two $10) has just three tables, which are colonized by French expats reading L'Express between bites of nostalgia in the form of authentic steak frites and salade lyonnaise. • Pocket-sized Pho 24 (5 Nguyen Thiep St., District 1; 84-8/822-6278; dinner for two $6) takes the country's beloved beef or chicken noodle soup (pho), with its cinnamon-and-anise-scented broth, to new heights. Bowls are served in a colonial-style room, with wrought-iron detailing and paper lanterns.

BANGKOK A former chef de cuisine of Rockpool, in Sydney, Amanda Gale enlivens fresh seafood with sunny southern Mediterranean flavors and occasional flourishes of Moorish spice at Cy'an (27 S. Sathorn Rd.; 66-2/625-3333; dinner for two $110), inside Christina Ong's Metropolitan Hotel. • Vegetarianism is embraced at the industrial-chic (but mom-and-pop sweet) Tamarind Café (27 Sukhumvit Soi; 66-2/663-7421; dinner for two $25), where self-taught chef Sylvie Bruzeau updates regional staples like Vietnamese summer rolls and Thai green-papaya salad.

SINGAPORE A local husband-and-wife team presides over the toughest table in town: Ember (50 Keong Saik St.; 65/6347-1928; dinner for two $50), in Hotel 1929. Sebastian Ng delivers mod Oz flavors in inventive dishes such as the Chilean sea bass (marinated for 12 hours) with ginger and soy broth.• Ding Tai Fung (Paragon, 290 Orchard Rd.; 65/6836-8336; dinner for two $20), a haven of blond wood in the over-the-top Paragon Shopping Center, has been inundated with demands for its handmade noodles and Taiwanese soup dumplings (the crab and pork are best).

BALI The 10-table Axiom (18A Jalan Raya Seminyak; 62-361/738-820; dinner for two $45) is an urbane boîte with high ceilings, polished cement floors, and a stylish crowd of Europeans and Asians. Dishes such as poached salmon with caramelized fennel and stewed palm-sugar custard change with the seasons.

T+L Tip

Getting There For Less Eat breakfast in Kuala Lumpur and have dinner in Bangkok—a flight between the two is just $70 on AirAsia.

Recommended Reading

K. F. Seetoh's Makansutra guidebook parses the best street and restaurant makan ("food" in Malay) in Sing-apore and Jakarta, listing and rating hundreds of local bites—from pepper crab-and-pork bone soup to durian puffs. (Three bowls with chopsticks is a perfect score.)


With new flights, airlines, airports, and high-speed trains, Asia is easier to navigate than ever before. Not to mention more affordable: air passes and hotel packages offer great values.

NONSTOP FLIGHTS As airlines acquire new, longer-range planes, they have begun replacing one-stop flights to Asia with nonstops. Singapore Airlines recently started Newark-Singapore nonstop service, an 18-hour flight that cuts four hours off one-stop schedules. The airline has also added a non-stop flight from Los Angeles to Singapore. Cathay Pacific launched similar flights between New York's JFK and Hong Kong in July.

U.S. carriers are also adding Asian routes. Northwest just kicked off nonstop service from Portland, Oregon, to Tokyo, with connections to several Asian cities; United began daily Chicago-Osaka and San Francisco-Beijing nonstops in June; and American has recently begun nonstop flights from Los Angeles to Tokyo.

LOW-FARE AIRLINES Asia is home to a new crop of low-cost carriers modeled after their U.S. counterparts, including Singapore-based Valuair (www.valuair.com.sg) and Kuala Lumpur-based Air Asia (www.airasia.com). Singapore's Tiger Airways is due to start this year with backing from foreign investors and Singapore Airlines. While these airlines fly a limited number of routes, they're growing fast and can often provide the best fares in the markets they serve. We found a round-trip Singapore-Hong Kong flight for $236 on Valuair compared with one for $421 on Singapore Airlines, and a round-trip Kuala Lumpur-Bangkok price of just $70 on Air Asia compared with $294 on Thai Airways. For more, go to www.attitudetravel.com/lowcostairlines/asia; you'll find a clickable map with links to most of the airlines.

AIR PASSES If you plan to travel around Asia, consider an air pass, which charges a fixed price for virtually unlimited travel—or a flat price per segment—within the Asian network of the sponsoring airline.

Cathay Pacific's All Asia Pass (www.cathay-usa.com) is one of the best airfare bargains. Starting at $999 (if purchased on-line), it provides round-trip passage from New York, Los Angeles, or San Francisco to Hong Kong, along with your choice of flights beyond Hong Kong to any of 18 Asian cities within a three-week period.

Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlinesusa.com) offers a similar deal, the Access Asia Pass. Starting at $1,099, it includes round-trip travel from New York or Los Angeles to Kuala Lumpur and flights to 21 other Asian cities within a 21-day period.

Star Alliance (www.staralliance.com) and its rival Oneworld (www.oneworld.com) offer their own Asian air passes, with flat-rate fares from $59 to $310 one-way for intra-Asian flights, depending on the distance traveled. Star Alliance is probably the better bet. Its member airlines—including United, Asiana, ANA, Singapore Airlines, and Thai Airways—offer broader coverage of Asia than Oneworld, whose principal partner in the region is Cathay Pacific.

For travel within Japan, transpacific travelers on Japan Airlines (www.japanair.com) are eligible for a Welcome to Japan air pass; two to five domestic flight segments can be purchased at about $117 each. Travel there with a Star Alliance carrier, and you qualify to buy a similar Japan Airpass—two to five domestic flights, operated by ANA, priced at $107 each.

NEW AIRPORTS Over the past few years, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, and Seoul have all opened state-of-the-art international airports. This summer China cut the ribbon on the expanded Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport, designed to handle 25 million travelers a year. In September 2005, Bangkok plans to open Suvarnabhumi Airport, about 16 miles from the city, as Thailand's premier international aviation gateway. Japan is building two airports on man-made offshore islands, both due to open next year: Central Japan International Airport, outside Nagoya, and Kitakyushu Airport, near Fukuoka.And Vietnam this year converted the former military air base at Vinh Cam Ranh into a commercial airport, providing jet service for visitors staying in the growing number of resort hotels in nearby Nha Trang.

NEW TRAINS The bullet train phenomenon started in Japan, and now super-fast models are turning up all over Asia. Shanghai is the site of the world's first commercial magnetic-levitation train line, which launched this year. It operates on a 19-mile route linking Pudong Airport with the city and achieves top speeds of nearly 270 mph. In preparation for the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing, the government is planning to build a rail line for high-speed trains that will connect Shanghai to the Chinese capital.

South Korea this year started its first bullet train service, cutting travel time between Seoul and the southeastern city of Pusan by 90 minutes, to 2 hours and 40 minutes. Another new high-speed line links Seoul with Mokpo in the southwest. In Taiwan, an October 2005 launch is planned for a high-speed line connecting Taipei with the island's second-largest city, Kao-hsiung.

PACKAGES AND FARE DEALS If you're planning to visit only one or two destinations, your best bet may be an air-hotel package from a tour operator. A good place to look for bargains is Travelzoo (www.travelzoo.com), an on-line bazaar where suppliers post cut-rate prices. Or try the U.S. Tour Operators Association (www.ustoa.com). You can also check out airlines' short-term fare sales at the Pacific Asia Travel Association site (www.travelwithpata.com).

HOTEL PACKAGES Starwood's Seven Pillars of Well Being (www.starwoodspacollection.com) provides healthy goodies, in-room spa extras, and discounts on treatments at all of its new Spa Collection properties, including those in Thailand, Korea, and China, through December 31.

Four Seasons Bangkok's two-night Retail Therapy Package (800/332-3442 or 66-2/250-1000; www.fourseasons.com; doubles from $320 per night) includes a room upgrade, private limo to your favorite market, bilingual guides for bargaining, and a foot massage to recover from the shopping spree.

At the Four Seasons Chiang Mai (800/332-3442 or 66-5/329-8181; www.fourseasons.com; three-night packages from $1,130, double), guests can choose from the Golf Lovers package (including two rounds on the green and massages); Spa Lovers (with a treatment and massage); Pure Romance (champagne, a two-hour treatment, and a three-course, candlelit dinner in a private pavilion); and others, through September 30.

China's first Formula One racing course has just opened, and the Portman Ritz-Carlton's F1 Grand Prix Package (800/241-3333 or 86-21/6279-8070; www.ritzcarlton.com; doubles from $500 per night) offers a three-night stay in Shanghai featuring limousine transport and box lunch on race days.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel Manila offers an undersea exploration package (800/416-8189 or 63-2/750-8888; www.mandarinoriental.com), partnering with several diving resorts and boat operators around the islands. A selection of onboard options or island resorts, with daily diving included, start at $380 per person, per night.

Health update

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has no travel alerts or warnings in effect for severe acute respiratory syndrome (SARS) or human cases of avian flu, two sometimes deadly ailments that have afflicted Asia in the past two years. And although a spokesman for the CDC warned that "you can never predict when you're going to have an outbreak," chances of contracting either disease appear to be slim. The most recent SARS outbreak, in April in China, affected nine people, all of whom were connected to workers in a laboratory in Beijing. And as long as you stay away from poultry farms and bird markets, you're unlikely to contract avian flu, based on the history of the 34 confirmed cases in Vietnam and Thailand since January. At press time, there were reports of several new cases of the flu in birds; see www.cdc.gov for up-to-date advisories.

Written and reported by Michelle Andrews, Joan Bulauitan, Jim Glab, Ron Gluckman, Brent Hannon, David Kaufman, Kaori Matsuda, Shane Mitchell, and Anya Sacharow.

Japan Arts Tour

WHAT IT IS Esprit Travel mounts extensive programs on everything from art and architecture to Kyoto Gardens. A new tour, Bamboo and Basket Arts, roams the entire country, providing detailed insight on this craft.

HIGHLIGHT Nancy Moore Bess, author of Bamboo in Japan, leads the way.

DETAILS 800/377-7481; September 21-October 3; from $5,250 per person, double, including airfare from Los Angeles

Retro Beijing

WHAT IT IS American Lawrence Brahm, the undisputed king of Cultural Revolution kitsch, has acquired a Red Flag limousine once used by Chairman Mao's wife, Jiang Qing, and made it a tour bus for his Red Capital Club restaurant and hotel.

HIGHLIGHT Caviar and champagne are served—half ironically—as the bulletproof limo tours the city.

DETAILS 86-10/8401-8886; www.redcapitalclub.com.cn; 50-minute tour from $225 for up to four people

Biking Inland China

WHAT IT IS Berkeley-based Backroads' latest 10-day bike tour passes through Beijing, the ancient city of Zhaoqing, and the side streets of Deqing and Wuzhou, then rolls through the surreal scenery of Yangshuo and Guilin.

HIGHLIGHT You pedal by day, then relax in top hotels, including the Palace Hotel in Beijing, at night.

DETAILS 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com; from $4,550 per person, double

China's Silk Road

WHAT IT IS The ancient route that once linked the world's Western and Eastern capitals—Rome and Beijing—can now be traversed by luxury train. The September 25 departure includes a Three Gorges cruise.

HIGHLIGHT Days are filled with onboard lectures on the history of the Silk Road.

DETAILS 800/387-1488; www.conferencetours.com; two-week tours from $5,050 per person, double, excluding airfare

Hong Kong Shopping

WHAT IT IS In early December, Paris-based shopping guru Suzy Gershman, author of Born to Shop Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Beijing, will lead a four-night store-and-spa tour of Hong Kong.

HIGHLIGHT Guests check into the InterContinental hotel and get a jet-lag spa treatment before pounding the pavement.

DETAILS 852/2313-2289; www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com; tours from $944 per person, double

Antiquing in China

WHAT IT IS Hong Kong was once the only place to buy Chinese antiques, but the deals have expanded to the mainland. Hong Kong gallery owner Karin Weber runs a two-day antiquing trip to Dinghu. She also advises on authenticity and shipping.

HIGHLIGHT Guests visit a 40,000-square-foot warehouse in the Chinese countryside, packed with antique statues and furniture.

DETAILS 852/2544-5004; www.karinwebergallery.com/chinatrip; from $290 per person

Textiles of Laos and Thailand

WHAT IT IS On Geographic Expeditions' three-week trek, roam remote mountain villages of these neighboring countries, where weaving techniques among the Thai Lu, Thai Dam, Akha, and Hmong peoples haven't changed for centuries.

HIGHLIGHT The tour is led by Linda McIntosh, joined by textile experts Patricia Cheesman (Thailand) and Carol Cassidy (Laos).

DETAILS 800/777-8183; www.geoex.com; from $5,225 per person, double

Boating in Vietnam and Cambodia

WHAT IT IS There isn't a more intriguing way to see these two countries than from the Mekong River. VW Tours sails from Saigon all the way to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat.

HIGHLIGHT Groups sail on the Mekong Pandaw, a traditional Burmese boat.

DETAILS 800/795-1633; www.vwtours.com; two-week land/cruise trip from $2,298 per person, double, including airfare from L. A.

Golfing in North Korea

WHAT IT IS The Koryo Group has golfers playing on the world's most guarded greens. Guests on three-day tours with Nick Bonner, who has been running trips to North Korea since 1993, play on the country's sole course, along Lake Taesong.

HIGHLIGHT The tour also visits the putting green at the Yanggakdo Hotel, famous for its singing waitresses.

DETAILS 86-10/6416-7544; info@koryogroup.com; from $1,300 per person, double, including transportation from Beijing

Paddling in the Gulf of Thailand

WHAT IT IS John Gray's Sea Canoe company has just expanded to Ko Samui and Krabi, in Thailand, and to Vietnam. Offerings range from day trips to weeklong excursions through some of Thailand's most remote waterways.

HIGHLIGHT The newest tour is the Hong by Starlight trip, which floats through tidal passageways (hongs).

DETAILS www.johngray-seacanoe.com; day trips from $75 per person, weeklong jaunts from $1,043

La Niçoise

Frequented by Parisian ex-pats, this tiny bistro serves simple, authentic French fare in the Dong Khoi district. The restaurant is divided into two levels, each with only a handful of mosaic tables. On the bottom floor, additional seating spills out onto the sidewalk. The menu includes French staples such as steak frites and pissaladière, a pizza-like dish topped with caramelized onions, black olives, anchovies, and thyme. The French-Vietnamese owner often greets his patrons personally and offers complimentary samples of vanilla or passion fruit rum.


Located on the third level of the International Finance Center Mall, this upscale restaurant serves classic Italian fare amid panoramic views of Victoria Harbour. The mostly white interior contains candlelit tables, an open kitchen with copper finishes, and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the water and the Kowloon skyline. When the weather is pleasant, a spacious outdoor terrace provides even more expansive vistas. The trattoria-style menu includes stone-baked pizzas, as well as entrées like shrimp and crabmeat risotto with saffron and spicy tomato broth. Upstairs, the bar serves more than 200 Italian wines, including 16 by the glass.


This Michelin-starred French restaurant at the 517-room Dusit Thani Hotel is the creative collaboration of brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel. Modeled after the Pourcels' acclaimed Montpelier restaurant, Le Jardin des Sens, D'Sens serves inventive cuisine against the dramatic backdrop of Bangkok's city skyline. The restaurant is perched on the hotel's rooftop, and its panoramic views of the city are particularly hypnotic at night. Chef Christian Ham's menu—recently revamped along with the updated Thai rococo decor—is known for its imaginative à la carte selections, such as grilled scallops with cereliac cannelloni, organic baby chicken with porcini-crusted potatoes; and glazed quail stuffed with duck foie gras.

Din Tai Fung

Originally founded in Taiwan, Din Tai Fung is a casual Chinese restaurant serving traditional dim sum, rice, and noodle dishes. The popularity of the restaurant’s steamed dumplings launched a global enterprise with locations in the United States, Japan, China, and Korea. The Singapore location inside the Paragon Shopping Center provides a convenient dining destination for busy shoppers. The no-frills restaurant specializes in efficient service, with most diners completing their meals within 40 minutes. Signature dishes include the steamed pork dumplings and steamed mashed red bean buns.


Pho 24

Pho, Vietnam’s national dish—a rich beef consommé spiked with clove, star anise, and ginger and laced with noodles and fresh basil and cilantro—gets the fast-food treatment at this popular chain, with surprisingly inspired results. Follow the Vietnamese and go for breakfast.

Tamarind Café

Sens & Saveurs

Billed as "Tokyo-style French cuisine," Sens et Saveurs is the Tokyo outpost of identical twins Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, whose Montpelier Les Jardin des Sens has earned three Michelin stars. Located on the 35th floor of the Marunouchi Building, the interior contrasts simple, neutral colors and furnishings with vibrant art and an eye-catching bar. The menu also provides contrasts: roasted scallop with black rice, red wine risotto, white wine sauce, and lemon cappucino or roasted Kirishima pork filet with a risotto galette. Four menu options are available (each with a differnt number of courses.)

Aqua, Hong Kong

Four Seasons Langkawi

This recent addition to the Jalan Tanjung Rhu area boasts a 40-acre wetland, where naturalists lead boat tours of the mangrove forests.

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok

French colonial hotel with gardens, hand-painted silk ceilings, and the city’s largest lap pool.

Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai

Twenty minutes outside Chiang Mai proper, with 12 poolside villas, plus pavilions that look onto rice paddies, the hotel’s two resident water buffalo, and the Mae Rim Valley.  Head to the timber-hewn cooking school for a day-long dive into traditional Thai cuisine. Head to the local market for ingredients, partake in a traditional Thai spirit house blessing, prepare the region's signature yellow curry noodles with chicken, Khao Soi Gai, and enjoy your labors in the open-air dining room, surrounded by landscaped gardens and a bubbling waterfall.

Grand Hyatt Tokyo

This 387-room midtown hotel is part of the lively Roppongi Hills complex (often dubbed a "city within a city"), crammed with hundreds of luxury boutiques, cafes, and a multiplex theater, open through the night on weekends. Rooms are generously appointed with mahogany furnishings, Frette linens, limestone baths, and soft, cotton yukata robes, customarily worn after bathing. Seven in-house restaurants include everything from an upscale take on teppanyaki to a charming patisserie, Fiorentina, helmed by the crowned winner of Mondial Des Arts Sucrés 2012, Pasty Chef Masaki Okazaki. If you fancy an evening in, drop by the 4th-floor bar, Maduro, where you'll enjoy live music and a specialty whiskey room, stocked with rare brands like Caol Ila and W.L. Weller.


While the adults soak in infinity pools overlooking the Andaman Sea, the kids take advantage of the Trisara Kids pavilion. Thirty-nine accommodations make up this resort, ranging from individual rooms to a six-bedroom residence. The “Third Garden in Heaven” (the resort’s name in Sanskrit) sits on its own bay near the international airport and has over a mile of shoreline. Hardwood floors, clean-line furnishings, and cream-colored linens are typical of the room interiors, while decks equipped with lounge chairs round out the exteriors. The spa’s signature is the “Royal Trisara” massage, and the dinner-only Trisara Grill is the main dining option.

Hotel 1929

Housed inside five refurbished 1929 shophouses, this retro-inspired Chinatown hotel is decorated with vintage designer furniture from hotelier Loh Lik Peng’s private collection. In the mirrored lobby, Verner Panton’s Cone chair and Arne Jacobsen’s Swan chair add visual interest to the space. Equally stylish, the 32 individually designed guest rooms may include Marimekko fabrics, Eames chairs, and bedspreads decorated with bright red poppies or blue-and-green stripes. The two suites also have outdoor baths set in rooftop gardens. Additional hotel amenities include an outdoor Jacuzzi, limousine service, and the renowned Ember restaurant, which serves inventive European cuisine with Asian influences.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel Manila

The Portman Ritz-Carlton, Shanghai

Fresh from a $40 million renovation, with Asian elements (such as cabinets inspired by Chinese medicine chests) and a great address.

Uma Ubud

Intimate and stylish, this Como hotel—just a five-minutes drive from the galleries and shops of Ubud—draws a chic young clientele. Japanese designer Koichiro Ikebuchi has made each of the 29 private villas into a luxuriant sanctuary: bedrooms are airy and light with pale, stone flooring, lime-washed wood carvings, and delicate ivory-colored linens, while the dramatic bathrooms have freestanding black terrazzo bathtubs and oversized ottomans. Yoga is a focus here; mats are provided in each room, and classes are held in a serene pavilion overlooking the banyan tree-blanketed Tjampuhan valley. The staff organizes activities like the half-day “Free-Wheeling” mountain bike tour, which takes guests to crater rim of Mt. Batur, then downhill through a chain of traditional villages.

Tip: Book way ahead. Uma Ubud is popular and often full, even during the low season.

Room to book: The Shambhala Suite is the property’s most extravagant, with a spacious sitting room and its own infinity plunge pool overlooking the verdant valley below.

Shinta Mani

Belmond Napasai

Formerly Pansea Napasai Samui

Anantara Golden Triangle Resort & Spa

The property rests on the banks of the mighty Mekong River at the meeting point of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos. The Zen-luxe retreat, near the Thai town of Chiang Saen, unabashedly makes the most of its location. Each of the 77 rooms includes a balcony with a canopied daybed for prime tri-cultural vistas. The Anantara's spa has five treatment rooms, equipped with both Thai massage platforms and private outdoor decks. The Mekong plays host to scenic river rides on long-tail boats, and the resort's on-site elephant camp, affiliated with Thailand's Elephant Conservation Center, offersriding courses. There's also a Thai cooking school, along with two restaurants and a bar. To help support the Doi Tung produce co-op, run by 27 area villages and tribes, the hotel carries its fair-trade nuts and coffee beans to sell to guests.

The Metropolitan

Housed inside a former YMCA building, the Metropolitan Bangkok has a refreshingly hip aesthetic. The hotel’s public areas and guest rooms are dominated by clean lines, dark wood furnishings, and cream-colored accents. Guest rooms also showcase original artwork by native Thai artist, Natee Utarit. The breakfast smoothies at glow, an organic restaurant, are popular among guests, as is the Thai food at Nahm, owned by David Thompson. The COMO Shambhala Urban Escape houses a gym, male and female steam rooms, and 10 holistic treatment areas.

The Peninsula Beijing

The Peninsula exudes old-world glamour with features like afternoon tea, tastefully-appointed rooms and suites, a luxurious spa that uses skincare products by luxury brand Biologique Recherche, and bellhops in crisp white uniforms. Its location in Wangfujing puts it close to tourist attractions like Tian’anmen Square, Donghuamen Night Market, and the Forbidden City.

Le Méridien Cyberport

Though the name sounds like something from a sci-fi movie, the Cyberport is a group of buildings in the Western District created to serve as a center for ICT (information and communications technology.) A key part of the high-tech collaboration center is this contemporary, 173-room high-rise hotel by Le Meridien. IKEA-like style fills the guest rooms, from the Smart Room to the Bayside Premier Suite (overlooking Telegraph Bay), all of which feature clean lines, warm lighting, and platform beds,. Sample traditional Cantonese fare at the onsite Nam Fong, and unwind, cocktail in hand, on beanbag-like chairs in the casual Sunset Lounge.

JIA, Hong Kong

The JIA Hong Kong, located in the Causeway Bay shopping district, is the first boutique hotel in Asia designed by French designer Philippe Starck. Jia means “home” in Mandarin, which is reflected in the hotel’s 54 apartment-like studios, one-bedroom suites, and duplex penthouses decorated in crisp whites offset by warm teak floors and golden yellow accents. If you really want to feel at home, whip something up in the in-room kitchenette with the help of an electric stove or sleek Smeg microwave.

Room to Book: If you prefer space and privacy, book a suite. They are much roomier than the studio rooms—an extra 400 square feet, exactly.


Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai

A miniature Thai kingdom with 123 Lanna-inspired suites and villas on 60 acres that's the setting for a Buddhist prayer house, a 33,000-square-foot spa, and an arts-and-crafts village.