Vinovino

Here's a tip. If grande dame restaurant Antico Martini's out of your budget, try Vinovino, the osteria next door. There's an art nouveau-style frieze painted around the wall, out back is a beautiful garden nestled under a centuries-old contessa's palace, and the extensive menu is well-priced. Most importantly, the food tastes great—because it shares a kitchen with Antico Martini.