In the serene Accademia neighborhood, just beyond the Campo San Stefano, the 26-room Palazzina Grassi has a superb collection of Modernist glass from Murano masters in a sparkling space designed by Philippe Starck. The mahogany-paneled restaurant, where a collection of rare glass objets d’art is subtly lit by handblown table chandeliers, serves a rich squid-ink risotto fit for a merchant prince. The mirrored guest rooms have scratchy linen sheets (request cotton) and some overlook the Grand Canal. Guests can check in “anytime, anyplace” they choose. If you happen to come by water, for example, you can check in aboard the vintage 1962 Celli boat that transports guests to the renovated 16th-century palace’s private dock on the Grand Canal, where a stylized bull’s head on a wooden door is the sole sign that you have arrived.