Le Crete Senesi
Stark and haunting, this enormous landscape sculpture is possibly the most dramatic and silent in all of Tuscany. From Siena, take a quick road to Taverne D’Arbia and turn to Asciano. From here, there are two narrow roads to Chiusure—take one going and the other coming back. Stop at Chiusure and have a glass of wine at Il Paradiso, and gaze at the endless hills. Move on to San Giovanni D’Asso, with its magical Romanesque little church, then through Torrenieri, to Buonconvento. Do plan a long stop at Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. There is a wonderful trattoria next to the abbey—best in truffle season, October to January. Tour the abbey with its thirty-two giant frescoes and magnificent library, then head back to Asciano on the road you didn’t come on. Stop to watch the sunset. You’ll thank me profusely.