Argentario Peninsula and the Islands
The most memorable of Tuscan beaches—dramatic coves, pebble shores with crystalline waters, and remarkable windswept vegetation. They are often isolated (a good walk to get down to them) and hard to find—ask, or look for cars parked at the roadside. Bring good walking shoes. And lots of ooohs and ahhs. The most intriguing is Isola Giglio (where the cruise ship ran aground, now gone thank God), ten miles from the coast. It has enormous and sensuous pink-granite shores, three sandy beaches, and perfect hiking trails. Its tiny ancient port is a dream with great food. A thousand-foot high stairway made by the Romans for pack mules, leads up to Giglio Castello, a medieval hill town of 550 inhabitants. Best at the end of September, when the water is still warm, tourists few, and the wine cellars hold their annual festival.