From the outside, it’s just another soot-streaked, film-noirish Istanbul apartment building. But once you enter and take the tiny elevator to the fifth floor, you’ll find a rooftop restaurant with fairy lights and a staggering view of the Bosporus. The bordello-red walls, beaded curtains, Art Deco bric-a-brac, and satin ceilings make a fitting backdrop for the theatrical types who gather here (the restaurant was opened by a local actress, Yasemin Alkaya, after the city’s devastating 1999 earthquake). Order the signature sunset cocktail, sink into the cushions, and watch the posturing of the crowd (many of them beautiful, haughty actresses and their superannuated director boyfriends). Highlights of the traditional menu include Chicken Marbella, marinated in red wine with prunes and olives, and handmade ravioli stuffed with lentils and served with garlicky yogurt. Skip the fish; it’s not the restaurant’s forte.