Atxen Jiménez, the gorgeous sixtysomething grande dame of Spanish gastronomy, is the magnetic star of this busy, clean-lined dining room on the main square of Tafalla, a town in Navarra, in northern Spain. Though she still runs the place like a tight ship, Jiménez has largely surrendered the kitchen to her gifted son Nicolás—a former student of the legendary Basque chef Juan Mari Arzak. Nicolás upholds Navarra’s reputation as Spain’s Eden for vegetables while adding discreet modern flair to the region’s famous asparagus, cardoons, and scarlet piquillo peppers. Assembled into a colorful bouquet scented with olive oil, garlic, and Ibérico ham, his menestra de verduras is the best thing to happen to fava beans and artichokes. Not that you’d want to miss the delicate stew of silken pochas (white beans), fresh off the vine.