Ester

The long-overlooked suburb of Chippendale, which lies just to the south of Sydney’s central business district, is now a hot spot thanks to a huge new apartment complex (Central Park) and a raft of openings. Much of the menu is cooked in a wood-fired oven, giving dishes an irresistible smoky flavor. Try the cauliflower with almond and mint, or be adventurous and order the kangaroo tartare with fried egg sauce.