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420 Alisal Rd., Solvang, CA, United States

This kitschy, mock-Danish community of year-round Christmas lights and ebelskiver has never seen anything like Bradley Ogden’s latest venture, a destination restaurant as polished as its gleaming walnut floors. Still, the emphasis is local: Ogden, cofounder of Marin County’s Lark Creek Inn, shops at Solvang’s Wednesday farmers’ market, and the wine list is devoted to the Central Coast. The cooking is at once mature and witty, from a blue-cheese soufflé with fresh figs to a handcrafted foot-long hot dog.

What to eat The exemplary fritto misto contains seaside-fresh squid and shrimp jacketed in an evanescent batter.

What to drink Tyler Winery bottles two Pinot Noirs from the Dierberg vineyard; the strawberry-scented Block 3 ($85) can fill a room with its perfume.

Restaurant
Root 246

This kitschy, mock-Danish community of year-round Christmas lights and ebelskiver has never seen anything like Bradley Ogden’s latest venture, a destination restaurant as polished as its gleaming walnut floors. Still, the emphasis is local: Ogden, cofounder of Marin County’s Lark Creek Inn, shops at Solvang’s Wednesday farmers’ market, and the wine list is devoted to the Central Coast. The cooking is at once mature and witty, from a blue-cheese soufflé with fresh figs to a handcrafted foot-long hot dog.

What to eat The exemplary fritto misto contains seaside-fresh squid and shrimp jacketed in an evanescent batter.

What to drink Tyler Winery bottles two Pinot Noirs from the Dierberg vineyard; the strawberry-scented Block 3 ($85) can fill a room with its perfume.