If Santa Cruz is the historic heart of Seville, then Triana is her soul. Located on the opposite bank of the Guadalquivir, this ancient neighborhood boasts an earthy essence so unique it merits exploration. Known for being the birthplace of flamenco and for producing world-class bullfighters, the vibe here is one unadulterated, free-spirited joy. It’s not unusual to stumble onto makeshift tables outside a typical tavern along colorful, picturesque Calle Betis, and witness an impromptu guitar or dance performance. Shop like a true trianero at the locals-only Mercado de Triana, and make merry in and around Calle Jacinto to get a feel for local life and spot the famed decorative Triana ceramic tiles every which way you turn.