It may have slipped a notch or two from its status of celebrity hot spot in the days of Bogie and Jackie O—admittedly it’s now a bit of a tourist trap—but such a relentlessly friendly place is hard to resist. The gregarious, opinionated owner Netta Buttone is perfectly suited for the role of a thickly accented Italian auntie who takes control and orders everything for you. The rigorously traditional local cooking is hearty and simple and, for the most part, lives up to her hype. The chef puts great store in local ingredients, most of them from the family farm. In the end, it’s hard to fault a place for being exactly what it is: the stereotypical bustling and exuberant Italian trattoria.