Hidden at the end of a bumpy side road off Puerto Rico’s scenic Ruta Panorámica, the tin-roofed Hacienda Gripiñas, built in 1858 as the homestead of a wealthy plantation owner, still evokes that graceful way of life. Mountain breezes drift in through shutter-framed windows, keeping the small sitting rooms cool. Some of the clapboard-wall guest quarters have verandas overlooking the spring-fed pool; Adirondack-chair rockers dot the public terraces. Follow one of the walking trails into the surrounding hills, thick with coffee plants, banana trees, and bird-of-paradise blossoms. And don’t miss the inn’s excellent carne guisada, a traditional beef stew made with tomatoes and pigeon peas.