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470 Pacific Ave., San Francisco, CA 94133, United States

Back in 2003, it took clever maneuvering—partitions, flattering lighting, butter-yellow walls, a Murano-glass chandelier—to make this diminutive former Victorian apothecary look so inviting. The dishes on Michael Tusk’s haute-rustic, market-driven menu, though, needed no sprucing—and they’re still sublime. Tusk, an alum of Chez Panisse and Oliveto, puts a northern-California spin on Mediterranean flavors: his house-made chickpea ravioli comes in a pepper-spiced squid sauce, and his Roman-style oxtail stew is subtly seasoned with cloves and cinnamon. Keep hitting the “redial” button to land a reservation.

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Quince

Back in 2003, it took clever maneuvering—partitions, flattering lighting, butter-yellow walls, a Murano-glass chandelier—to make this diminutive former Victorian apothecary look so inviting. The dishes on Michael Tusk’s haute-rustic, market-driven menu, though, needed no sprucing—and they’re still sublime. Tusk, an alum of Chez Panisse and Oliveto, puts a northern-California spin on Mediterranean flavors: his house-made chickpea ravioli comes in a pepper-spiced squid sauce, and his Roman-style oxtail stew is subtly seasoned with cloves and cinnamon. Keep hitting the “redial” button to land a reservation.