With 62 rooms, two pools, and a spa, Le Parc enshrines a certain idea of taste and comfort you may have to be French, middle-class, and from someplace other than Paris to appreciate. Still, it’s not a hardship to spend the night here. Rooms decorated in an Alsatian idiom, i.e., with a lot of wood, have more atmosphere than those done in a “contemporary” style. Having established a serious restaurant, La Table, at Le Parc, owner Marc Wucher opened a winstub the way fancy chefs in other parts of France open bistros. He did a magicianly job creating it from scratch, filling it with paneling salvaged from a church, Betschdorf steins, and a kachelofen below regulation rails for drying tea towels. La stub specializes in heart-attack food, but what a way to go. Every winstub does a whole brick of breaded-and-deep-fried Muenster; judging this treatment too tame, chef Jacky Schweighoeffer coats it instead with grated potatoes and onions bound with egg. “Deep-fried” isn’t the first thing you think of when you think of tête de veau, but Schweighoeffer finds a way, enfolding it in brik pastry. A boat-size meringue glacée comes with enough ice cream for an eight-year-old’s birthday party. The too-muchness makes sense when you learn that Schweighoeffer is also the chef at La Table. Somersaults aside, he dresses a marbly terrine of foie gras and pork cheeks with Melfor vinaigrette, and you have to like him for it. Produced in Alsace, Melfor is a distilled beetroot vinegar infused with plants and softened with honey.