The ambitious, well-executed food at Contra belies its somewhat spare, narrow environs. Here, there is only one thing on the menu: an exceptionally seasonal, multi-course prix fixe of the chefs' understated yet nuanced modern American food, served at a very reasonable price. For something more casual, head to Wildair, the natural wine bar next door. Its small, shareable plates are flavorful and addictive—don't skip the stracciatella and persimmon salad with butternut squash sauce, or the clams with XO sauce and almond milk broth. Ask the server to recommend a few great glasses of wine for a wonderful, satisfying meal.