Celeste

Even though only a laminated piece of paper on the door denotes this tiny dinner-only Italian spot, lines start to form early. The draw: generous pours of wine and big portions of Neapolitan staples, from antipasti to artisanal pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and ubiquitous gelato desserts—all at reasonable prices. Don’t miss the cheese plate, dictated tableside in thick Italian by the characterful owner, Carmine Mitroni.