Set in the yuppified (for Delhi) Defence Colony shopping plaza, this delectable seafood place—it’s part of a chain, but a good one—presents a welcome dilemma: its encyclopedic menu is crammed with about 1,473 dishes and nearly as many varieties of fresh fish. The problem is, Swagath also has arguably Delhi’s finest butter chicken (a.k.a. murgh makhani), a legendary dish that transcends the usual cliché with tender meat and a fantastically velvety sauce. What to do? The only real solution is to come back a few times and order as much as you can—and don’t miss the seasonal blue lobster from Bombay, the pomfret fillets, or the deep-fried, garlic-and-chile-spiked soft-shell crab. Though the atmosphere is homey and convivial—faux banana-leaf place mats set the tone—you’ll find the staff is endearingly formal: order a Kingfisher beer and the waiter will present the bottle, like a fine Merlot, before opening and pouring.