Oh! Calcutta, New Delhi
Part of a national chain (but don’t let that dissuade you), this upmarket newcomer specializes in Bengali cooking—arguably the greatest regional Indian cuisine that’s relatively unknown outside of India. Here the focus is on seafood—fresh- and saltwater fish, crabmeat, and prawns, all flown in daily from Bengal and the east coast—and on seasonings (such as a zesty mustard sauce) and side dishes (french fries?) that bear little resemblance to the Mughlai and Punjabi dishes commonly thought of as “Indian.” Bengalis make up a majority of the clientele, which is always a good sign.