If you think you love the New York bagel, your loyalty might be tested by Montreal’s small, dense, and sweet version of the boiled classic. The best place to sample them lies beyond the perpetually steamed windows of this tiny storefront, whose owners have been turning out bagels since 1919. Located in Mile End, a historic ethnic neighborhood, Fairmount sells more than 20 varieties these days. But we advise sticking to the originals: sesame, poppy, or plain. Get them fresh and there’s no need for any other toppings.