Anfield has been called soccer's Fenway Park, though from the outside it seems a particularly unlovely factory. The field is an otherworldly green, all that moisture put to good effect. The scale is intimate, and everyone in the tightly packed stands wears red. Before each match, they stand in unison and sing the Rodgers & Hammerstein standard "You'll Never Walk Alone," once recorded by Liverpool's Gerry and the Pacemakers. The song is syrupy, but as rendered by 40,000 true believers, it sounds poignantly heartfelt. Even rival fans have been known to cry.