Garrafeira Alfaia
Snag one of the 18 wooden stools at this diminutive Bairro Alto boîte, where you can savor a singular Chardonnay from the emerging Alentejo region and be wowed by Barca Velha—a mythical Upper Douro red released only in exceptional years. The food is just as artisanal: black pig charcuterie; unctuous Azeitão, a sheep’s-milk cheese coagulated with cardoon thistle; and sericaia, an airy, eggy soufflé served with famed Elvas sugarplums.