In 2012, chef Mehmet Gurs reoriented Mikla’s menu away from Europe and introduced dishes highlighting ingredients from Turkey, becoming the progenitor of a culinary movement called New Anatolian. The cuisine has taken Istanbul by storm, with a clutch of chefs updating, refining, or playing off of traditional Anatolian dishes. Gurs still carries the lead, tasking an anthropologist with traveling widely to ferret out small producers and obscure recipes. He then shows them off in dishes like whole-wheat manti with smoked buffalo yogurt and clay-pot-braised lamb stew with cibes (wild lily stems). The presentation may be European, but the flavors at Gurs’s table are true to the Turkish heartland.