Antica Osteria del Bai
This stone hut set directly on the water west of the city has been serving lunch and dinner in the same place for 210 years and Gianni Malagoli has owned it for 42 of them, but he recently ceded control of the cooking to his son-in-law, Marco Maistrello. Malagoli serves only fish from the gulf, caught each morning. He’s especially proud of his tartares—labeled as such and not as the trendier crudo. But the dish to order is the hand-cut farfalle tossed with chunks of snapper and delicate stewed eggplant.