Fox & Anchor Restaurant
“Hops & chops, cuvées & duvets” is the overly cute motto of the otherwise note-perfect Fox & Anchor, a Victorian pub in Clerkenwell that’s recently been given a face-lift by the folks from the boutique Malmaison hotel. They saved it from becoming a curry house, retooling the bar and adding six modern bedrooms upstairs with claw-foot bathtubs and artful black-and-white photos of nearby Smithfield Market.
There are pies, Maldon oysters, a carving trolley. Fish-and-chips is, thankfully, nothing more: cod in a batter made with London Meantime beer, held fast by a dense, darkly green mooring of mushy peas. The food at the Fox isn’t a “take” on anything, no unfortunate modern interpretations or radical rethinks.