Australia’s most famous chef for close to a decade, Tetsuya Wakuda continues to wow foodies with his deft, eclectic Japanese-by-way-of-French cuisine. Well-dressed diners (many of whom have been on a waiting list for more than a month) fill the restaurant’s two spare, glassed-in dining rooms every night; apart from a few Zen-style artworks and the Japanese water garden outside the windows, there’s little to distract them from the food. Wakuda’s 10-course degustation menus change constantly but are always inventive: a first course might be gazpacho with spiced tomato sorbet, followed by a tataki of venison with rosemary and honey. Among the signature dishes here are Wakuda’s double-cooked spatchcock with braised daikon, and confit of ocean trout served with unpasteurized ocean trout roe. Desserts are light and sublime, and often incorporate sorbets and ice creams in extraordinary flavors—like black pepper, honey, and champagne.