Things to Do in Buenos Aires

Martin Morrell

Lined with theaters, concert halls, secondhand bookstores, pizzerias and not a single damn tree, the half dozen blocks of Corrientes on either side of... Read More

Because it’s not funky or newsworthy or groundbreaking, Argentina’s National Fine Arts Museum sometimes gets forgotten. This is a shame. Nowhere else... Read More

Few of the exhibits in Argentina’s National Museum of Decorative Art match the grandeur of the mansion in which they are housed, an eclectic stunner of... Read More

Better known as Ezeiza International Airport, or simply Ezeiza, Argentina’s principal international airport sits 26 miles to the southwest of the... Read More

Hybrid Spanish and Tango courses spice up language learning with five weekly lessons at one of the city’s best dance schools. Read More

Modest Almagro, reportedly the birthplace of the tango, is known for its dance halls, which cater to a mix of tourists and locals. Here you’ll... Read More

If nothing else, it’s a nice story: Oregon native Daniel Karlin visited Buenos Aires in 2004, met his future wife within 36 hours, set up a wine tasting... Read More

The satisfying aroma of leather greets you as you enter Arandú, which is dedicated to handicrafts. Stock up on woven bracelets, suede hunting... Read More

The smell of leather is intoxicating in this upmarket talabartería, which literally means saddlery. Release your inner gaucho (and max out your credit... Read More

On the platform in the subway station between Buenos Aires’s court buildings and the famous Teatro Colón, the Cartala brothers’... Read More

Some 25 years ago, antiquarian Ricardo Paz visited the dry forest of northern Argentina and found villages of artisans turning out colorful textiles and... Read More

From the hobbit-sized chairs suspended from the ceiling to the late-19th-century textiles hanging on the walls, everything in this extraordinary... Read More

Amid San Telmo's antiques galleries, ArtePampa sells pre-Columbian-style dolls, llama-motif mirrors, and lampshades of lacquered, textured paper, all... Read More

End the night at the atmospheric El Federal, a watering hole open since 1864. Read More

No trip to the city that gave birth to the sultry tango would be complete without taking in a live show. This tiny club, with its black-and-white dance... Read More

Recharge with a frothy concoction (grapefruit-lemongrass-spirulina, perhaps) at this new juice bar, adored by the neighborhood’s skinny-jeans... Read More

Any place whose house band is called the Boris Big Band is alright by me. This 14-piece outfit brings the swing every Sunday night, while weeknight... Read More

Buenos Aires Design features more than 60 different shops. Situated on a hill next to the famous Recoleta Cemetery, the center showcases the best of... Read More

No lawns, confusingly; this is a clay court venue, with capacity for nearly 6,000 spectators. It hosts the annual ATP Buenos Aires men’s event, which is... Read More

The biggest draw here is the young house band, Orquesta Típica El Afronte, whose string section, pianist, and quartet of bandeonistas (the bandoneón is... Read More

Recently restored, this myth-soaked coffee house dates back to 1890, when it attracted an eclectic mix of artists, prostitutes, gangsters and minstrels ... Read More

This cool little concert venue in Palermo specializes in folk and jazz, with gigs most nights of the week. Monday is milonga night, with a class... Read More

The streets between Plazoleta Cortázar and Plaza Palermo Viejo are packed with stylish boutiques. Stop by Calma Chica for cowhide pillows. Read More

This airy showroom is filled with things that beg to be sat, sprawled or stretched out on, including patchwork cowhides (either as nature intended or... Read More

The world's only polo stadium located within a capital city, this is Argentina's mecca to the sport of kings. Known as La Catedral (the cathedral), the... Read More

The spring polo season peaks in late November and early December, when the Argentine Open (if they had any marketing nous they’d call it the World... Read More

Like many rural towns in Argentina, Carlos Keen grew around its train station and when the trains stopped running, the town stopped growing. Ironically,... Read More

A family of German immigrants opened this marroquinería (leather-store) across from Plaza San Martin in 1943. The shelves are stocked with... Read More

While the Argentine president doesn't actually reside here, the Pink House on Plaza de Mayo is the focal point for much of Argentina's history.... Read More

This is where Pope Francis worked when he was archbishop of Buenos Aires between 1998 and 2013. The cathedral has been rebuilt six times since its... Read More

Depending on your point of view (I hinted at mine in the Introduction), this world-famous graveyard is either a place of exquisite beauty and... Read More

Located just off pedestrian thoroughfare of Florida Street, the Borges is one of the city's best contemporary cultural centers, hosting everything from... Read More

Originally a Beaux-Arts post office, this stunning building has undergone a lengthy facelift and reopened as Latin America’s largest cultural center.... Read More

Only four people are allowed in at one time where vintage license plates share space with spindly drinking glasses. Read More

This leftfield cultural center in Abasto offers a varied program of events for adults and kids, from experimental theater to puppet shows to live bands.... Read More

Couples have been revolving counterclockwise around this venue’s 110-square-meter dancefloor since 1994, backlit by the club’s trademark neon sign. At... Read More

This is a beloved community center, where kids and adults go to practice martial arts, play soccer or simply sit and gossip over a café con leche with... Read More

People have always wanted a piece of this exquisite Uruguayan town, from the Portuguese who founded it in 1680, to the Spanish who kept trying to steal... Read More

Tucked away on a quiet and very Parisian Recoleta side street, this is the best place in the city to try and buy tango shoes. The fashion-meets-function... Read More

In this tiny second-floor store, shoppers sit on leopard-skin benches as they try on the dagger-heeled tango shoes that cofounder (and accomplished... Read More

Sign up during the day for lessons at this old-world tango salon—featured in the movie Evita—then come back at night to show off your new... Read More

Always fading but never quite gone, this century-old “tea house”—as it was originally conceived —is one of the best and most beautiful places for tango... Read More

Is this relatively new place in Palermo Viejo a bookstore with a bar attached or vice versa? It doesn’t really matter. Browse the shelves stacked with... Read More

This influential gallery exhibits work from the country's biggest names, such as the avant-garde Mondongo collective, known for rendering images in... Read More

The shoes here are intended for Buenos Aires' signature "sexy girl" crowd: on a tufted-velvet pouf in the center of a fuchsia jewel box, Porteñas... Read More

At 394 feet, this spartan Art Deco skyscraper in the Retiro neighborhood was South America’s tallest building when it was inaugurated in 1935. It’s also... Read More

Regularly named among the world’s most beautiful bookstores, this century-old former theater is worth a visit even if you haven’t picked up a book since... Read More

Mate gourds lined with alpaca, long gaucho knives with decorative handles, belts and wallets made from carpincho (capybara) leather, rugs, silverware,... Read More

This pioneering farmers market is housed in a bright yellow shack in Chacarita. Many of the products on sale, including poultry, charcuterie, cheeses... Read More

Usually known simply as Bosques de Palermo or Palermo Woods, Parque Tres de Febrero is the city’s largest and most important green space. It’s a... Read More

Located on the Parque Centenario, this authentic, neighborhood milonga that is very much not oriented towards tourists features one large tango patio on... Read More

Historic in architectural form, this museum and event space is housed in a 178-year-old mansion–turned–boarding house that once sat atop the... Read More

Owners Fernando Bach and Pablo Mendivil spend a lot of time on the road, visiting their weavers in Argentina’s Andean northwest. The result is a line of... Read More

One of the dullest aspects of learning a new language is that it’s often presented as dry grammar in a classroom, shorn of all relationship to... Read More

Carlos Gardel was to tango what Louis Armstrong, Ray Charles and Elvis Presley combined were to popular music. Located in Abasto, where "Carlitos" was... Read More

Homero Manzi was one of the true poets of tango, penning witty but heartbreaking lyrics to such classics as "Fuimos," "Desde el Alma," and, most... Read More

A soul-less concrete bowl or the best soccer stadium in Argentina? River Plate fans and most neutrals will come down on the side of the latter, though... Read More

More regal than rustic, this drop-dead gorgeous, mock-Tudor mansion was designed by famed architect Alejandro Bustillo in 1919. Explore 74 hectares of... Read More

Panama-hatted hipster Alan Faena has never seen an old building he didn’t want to recycle. Following on from the success of his Hotel + Universe (grain... Read More

A palm- and rubber tree-studded bluff in Recoleta is the setting for this popular handicrafts fair, open every weekend and on public holidays. Come here... Read More

If you can’t get to the country, at least get to this weekend market on the western edge of the city and let the country come to you. Gauchos in bright... Read More

Look beyond the T-shirts and ponchos at this weekend market and you’ll unearth etched silver-topped boxes and handcrafted jewelry. The charm of... Read More

Usually known simply as the “Sunday market,” this hugely popular fair fills every nook and cranny of San Telmo’s Plaza Dorrego and spills out into the... Read More

Of the many shops specializing in tango clothing and shoes—custom-made or not—Flabella Tango, where around $60 will buy a pair of glittery... Read More

This photography museum took up residence in an abandoned warehouse in 2015, as a more permanent extension of BA Photo, an annual exhibition. Focusing... Read More

Strange, sexy, and sweet-smelling Fueguia is the visionary project of Julián Bedel, a perfumer who also runs a laboratory in Palermo. His unique... Read More

A contemporary arts space overlooking La Boca's docks, Proa has a repertoire that’s focused on Argentine artists with rotating exhibits, installations,... Read More

From the “readymades” of Marcel Duchamp to the hyper-realistic sculptures of Ron Mueck, exhibits at this beautifully recycled waterfront warehouse have... Read More

With its slender lighthouse and exquisite ironwork cupolas, this art nouveau landmark dates from 1915. Italian architect Francisco Gianotti modeled it... Read More

One of the hippest arts spaces in Buenos Aires, Patio del Liceo was first a private home, then Latin America’s first girls’ school. These days, the shop... Read More

Right off Plaza Dorrego is Gil Antigüedades, an unexpected dreamworld of vintage clothing. Head downstairs for row upon row of exquisite 1940&rsquo... Read More

Upon departure, non-citizens are entitled to a cash refund of the 21 percent VAT tax paid on commercial purchases of more than 70 pesos (US$18). The... Read More

An organization supporting local street art artists, Graffitimundo gives tours that focus on a particular barrio and its artwork. Given that the... Read More

Soft lit and sexy, this joint has been around since 1999, which makes it a gnarled old survivor in Buenos Aires terms. It’s a top spot for modern... Read More

As Recoleta mansions were carved into progressively smaller apartments after World War II, the city found itself awash in Art Deco furniture sold by... Read More

Pretty without being pretentious, the Buenos Aires horse-racing track bears witness to the elegance that once surrounded the sport. The track and its... Read More

In its early 20th century heyday, el turf was as popular as soccer, as proved by the number of tangos that reference it (Gardel’s “Por una cabeza,”... Read More

It’s actually quite spectacular and literally impossible to avoid (you must pass through it to get to departures gates), so you may as well browse... Read More

Perfect your own moves with renowned tanguero Carlos Copello at his movement school (classes from $3). You won't be an expert overnight, but you will be... Read More

Designed by renowned French landscaper Carlos Thays, who is responsible for many of the city's loveliest green spaces, the botanical garden is home to... Read More

One of BA’s most attractive aspects is the sheer number of trees lining its streets and avenues. But only here are they grouped into categories, and... Read More

This is one of the largest Japanese gardens outside Japan and without question the tidiest green space in Buenos Aires. Kids love crossing the bright... Read More

If you don’t like zoos, or don’t approve of zoos, this one isn’t going to convert you. It needs some nip and tuck, and more spacious quarters for the... Read More

The city’s Costanera Norte promenade is dotted with clubs and discos, most of them at the upscale, dressy end of the spectrum. Jet is one of the best,... Read More

With two dance floors crammed (and I mean crammed) with a good mix of locals and gringos, Kika Club has established itself as one of the best places to... Read More

Or “the Republic of La Boca,” as a famous sign proclaims, reflecting local pride, a sense of independence and not a little insularity on the part of the... Read More

Strictly working class, La Boca retains the Italian identity of the immigrants who landed here. You’ll find plenty of good food, but skip the... Read More

Boca Juniors HQ is formally known as Estadio Alberto J. Armando, but the nickname, which means “the chocolate box,” has stuck. With one stand vertical... Read More

Held Saturday nights on the grounds of a sports club in Nuñez (a Buenos Aires suburb in the northern end of the city) La Calesita is one the cit... Read More

Housed in a building from 1880, this strange and seductive venue looks like a cross between a barn, an artist’s atelier and the set of a Tim Burton... Read More

Whether you’re in the market for a full-blown tasting or just a glass of vino with a picada (mixed cheeses and cold cuts), this cozy cellar in Villa... Read More

This is the city’s only open-air milonga, and it’s held in a splendid old summerhouse in Barrancas de Belgrano—a sloping park dotted with palms, oaks... Read More

Argentina's leading folk musicians stamp out complex rhythms at Palermo's popular music hall. Read More

The trusty Trastienda has been showcasing top acts and upcoming hopefuls for two decades now. As of writing, tickets are selling for leading Argentine... Read More

Any nerves you may have about your first class or milonga will melt away upon entering this classic venue, as friendly and unpretentious as the tango... Read More

There’s a blue Vespa parked just inside the door of Las Oreiro, owned by actor and singer Natalia Oreiro. Inside, the structural columns are... Read More

Locals shuddered and shouted when rumors circulated in 1999 that this historic theater might be torn down. The building has been declared a landmark,... Read More

This Barnes & Noble–style bookstore sells Spanish-language books, music CDs, children’s games, and a wide selection of DVDs. The airport... Read More

It is unclear whether any books actually get sold in this hip Palermo hangout. Most people haul them to the café, read them over a cortado or two, and... Read More

If you’re a serious clubber, the kind who judges a place as much by the quality of its sound system as by how many Cuba Libres it hands out for free... Read More

A customer purportedly bought shoes here, wore them when she got home to Manhattan, and pretty soon the costume department for the Sex and the City... Read More

Barrenechea is known for helping to cultivate travel to Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay. When Argentina had very little travel infrastructure, Barrenechea... Read More

After 10 years on Palermo Viejo’s Plaza Julio Cortázar—a small plaza that’s the epicenter of Buenos Aires nightlife—this... Read More

The Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires – better known as the MALBA – houses fabulous permanent collections from the likes of Antonio Berni,... Read More

The most reliable of the airport remis (taxi) services, this 82-year-old company shuttles passengers between Buenos Aires and the airport in late-model,... Read More

The “Illuminated Block,” as it is commonly, and unpoetically, translated is a complex of historic buildings constructed by the Jesuits in the early 17th... Read More

A 1960’s vibe permeates Mariano Toledo, where a bright-green rug pops on the stark white floor. A pleated mini is accessorized with green floral... Read More

Named for the slaughterhouses that provided Buenos Aires with its beloved carne, Mataderos is a far-flung industrial neighborhood known for its... Read More

This weekly street fair is where Porteños go to discover their country’s rural roots without leaving the city. Started in 1986 in the... Read More

The work of Slovenian architect Viktor Sulčič, who also designed La Bombonera [link to Best places to watch sports in BA], this swooping, soaring brute... Read More

I don’t know how many hours I’ve spent strolling the vaulted corridors of this splendid flea market, which was renovated a couple of years back. I do... Read More

In less-visited Caballito, locals have bargained with butchers and greengrocers for more than 100 years under these iron arcades. Read More

Gawk at the interior decoration at this humongous full-service denim store: floor-to-ceiling library bookcases filled with jeans; wicker fans turning... Read More

Here, the Casa Rosada—the president’s offices—and the colonial-era Cabildo government house bookend Buenos Aires’s most famous... Read More

The streets between Plazoleta Cortázar and Plaza Palermo Viejo are packed with stylish boutiques. Stop by Mishka for affordable sandals.... Read More

The little orange house where MU has set up shop was once a private home. Now the bathroom provides space for a clerk and a computer; doors have become... Read More

Dip into the life of tango's most legendary singer, El Zorzal (the thrush) Carlos Gardel, whose life was tragically cut short in a plane crash when he... Read More

Best museum and art gallery in Buenos Aires? Best cultural venue period is my uncontroversial assessment. The permanent collection is a Who’s Who of... Read More

Attached to La Bombonera, legendary home ground of Boca Juniors soccer club, this loud and garish museum traces the team’s (mostly) glorious history.... Read More

Housed in what used to be the city’s fort, behind what is now the Pink House, this impressive space was developed to mark the bicentenary of Argentina’s... Read More

For a closer look at the short life of glamorous first lady Eva Perón—who famously said she'd “return and become millions”—head to the Evita Museum,... Read More

A 1920's-era mansion, once a women's shelter started by Eva Perón, is now a museum devoted to the first lady-turned-cult figure, with a... Read More

For an unbiased view of Eva “Evita” Perón’s life and legacy… well, good luck with that. No figure in Argentine history is more polarizing, and the... Read More

With works dating from pre-Hispanic times through the current day, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes displays some of the world's most eminent fine art... Read More

Sailor, mathematician, linguist, writer, crackpot (he claimed to exist in his own personal time zone), friend of Jorge Luis Borges and, most importantly... Read More

Walk down a short corridor and ring the bell to enter Nadine Zlotogora, where a rich-hippie aesthetic rules. The frothy confections—tiered black... Read More

Old-world masters like Rubens and Picasso are well represented, but the best part of the museum is the Argentinean art—the most extensive... Read More

Prehistoric in nightclub terms, this sweaty, unpretentious joint in Palermo Viejo is a great place to catch live bands (including decent local reggae,... Read More

Buenos Aires is in the midst of a boom of speakeasy—like puerta cerrada (“closed door”) bars and restaurants. Ocho7Ocho, a converted... Read More

Arguably the top fashion designer in Buenos Aires, Ramírez’s store and clothes exude a minimalist elegance that borders on the monastic ... Read More

There are plenty of people whose idea of bliss is to stand on the terrace of this megaclub on a warm summer’s morning with a backdrop that is part... Read More

Palacio Barolo’s architecture is based on Dante's Divine Comedy. The 100-meter-tall, neo-Gothic-meets-neo-Romanesque structure was Latin America's... Read More

I used to work here. One afternoon, while sitting with my back to an open window, a bat flew in and roosted on my neck. Nothing could be more in keeping... Read More

Keen players of Monopoly will know that Water Works is a pretty good buy at $150 but nothing to get excited about. BA’s poetically named Palace of... Read More

So-named because of the number of TV studios within its boundaries, the tree-filled and cobblestoned Hollywood is ground zero for the city’s... Read More

If there is one neighborhood that epitomizes the retail renaissance of Buenos Aires, it is Palermo Viejo, also known as Palermo Soho. Droves of young... Read More

Home to the bohemian enclave of Palermo Soho, this was the first of the city’s gentrified districts, and is still an art and design hub. With low... Read More

The streets between Plazoleta Cortázar and Plaza Palermo Viejo are packed with stylish boutiques. Stop by Papelera Palermo for fine handmade... Read More

Opened in 1910 to mark the centenary of Argentine independence, this Charles Thays-designed park is one of the city’s biggest and best. At weekends,... Read More

Looking for thrills, spills, and an adrenaline rush? Then hire a car and drive around Buenos Aires. For something more down tempo, take the train to... Read More

This smart stop for traditional Argentine items sells woven gaucho-style ponchos, silver jewelry, supple leather belts and wallets, and the ultimate... Read More

Despite—or maybe because of—its chandeliers and dramatic glass ceiling, some visitors will find Patio Bullrich, considered the town’s... Read More

If you can imagine your really cool friends who live in a really cool house and own lots cool stuff having a fire sale, you can imagine somewhere like... Read More

The collection of handbags includes a small clutch covered with interlocking silver disks for $495, and a triangular purse decorated with chrysoprase... Read More

For foodie souvenirs, visit the new gourmet market in Recoleta. Read More

Somehow Sharon Stone discovered Plata Nativa and went crazy for the multistrand necklaces combining turquoise, amethyst, quartz, lapis, and other... Read More

When people refer to Buenos Aires as the Paris of South America, they are remembering this genteel quarter along the Avenida de Mayo. The city’s... Read More

A tidy square dating from the 1580's, lined with Neoclassical buildings like the Catedral Metropolitana and anchored by an ornate cast-iron fountain,... Read More

Named for Argentina's independence revolution of May 1810, Plaza de Mayo continues to be a focal point for protest (the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo human... Read More

On Sundays it seems like the entire population of Buenos Aires flocks to San Telmo, a newly chic boho district. Start at Plaza Dorego then fan out to... Read More

More of a bluff than a square, Plaza Francia spreads out in front of Centro Cultural Recoleta, an excellent venue for the visual and performing arts. A... Read More

This book dealer offers first editions and historical paraphernalia. Our favorites: Bruce Chatwin’s In Patagonia and pictures of Jorge Luis Borges... Read More

Beautifully revamped, this once-derelict two-mile stretch of docks and warehouses is now lined with steak houses, nightclubs, and romantic arching... Read More

Those who thrill to the noise and chaos of downtown Buenos Aires might find this regenerated docklands neighborhood a tad sterile. Everyone else will... Read More

Smartly refurbished in 2011, this popular estancia feels more like a posh rural hotel than a stately home, and indeed, the damask armchairs and chunky... Read More

It’s not surprising that Eva Perón is interred in the very heart of this neighborhood. Evita will always be remembered for, among other... Read More

Aside from being the final resting place of many famous Argentineans, this vast cemetery is an architectural tour de force. This cemetery opened in 1822... Read More

center of Buenos Aires high society, beautiful Recoleta may boast more polished brass than Fifth Avenue. The neighborhood is full of upscale clothing... Read More

The willows can weep to their heart’s content, the rushes grow wild and high and the shrubs as prickly as they dare in the city’s Ecological Reserve,... Read More

It's the merest flash of naked breast, but it's enough to make Rojo Tango at the Faena Hotel + Universe the only not-suitable-for-work show in Buenos... Read More

Founded in 1965 by the eponymous Ruth Benzacar, this avant garde art gallery in a hidden underground space near Plaza San Martín is committed to... Read More

Siblings—or hermanos—Martín, Sebastián, Eliana, and Milagros are third-generation artisanal soap makers, and their extraordinary line of handmade bars... Read More

This spacious hall hosts traditional milongas— as well as shows and special events—every night of the week; tango classes are offered, too. Admission is... Read More

This downtown neighborhood encompasses the Microcentro—the bustling, congested heart of the city’s financial and government districts&mdash... Read More

Depending on the visitor, either a lovably bohemian neighborhood of art galleries and ancient homes or a grungy neighborhood of overpriced tchotchkes.... Read More

On Sundays it feels like the entire population of Buenos Aires flocks to the San Telmo neighborhood, home to a network of antiques centers that seems to... Read More

Seco has clear plastic coats edged in red and white checks, matching checked plastic bucket hats, and other wet-weather gear you’ve never seen... Read More

Watching a live game of professional soccer—or, rather, fútbol—is perhaps the fastest way to the Argentine psyche. Getting into a... Read More

For an off-the-wall class in an off-the-wall place, try this bar in Almagro, housed in a sprawling old mansion with Art Nouveau features. Live shows... Read More

The two-story shop—modeled after an upscale bordello, with flocked wallpaper and velvet sofas—is the place to stock up on tango gear. The... Read More

Pavarotti, Nureyev, and Pavlova have performed at this opera house, which is both acoustically and visually staggering. If well-priced tickets are sold... Read More

Considering the number of architects who collaborated on its design and construction, one of whom was shot dead by his former valet mid project, the... Read More

With its rationalist facade of reinforced concrete and asymmetrical, shell-like auditorium inspired by New York’s Radio City Music Hall, this venue... Read More

This world-class wildlife park looks after its two-legged visitors almost as well as it looks after its feathered, hoofed, scaled, and furry residents.... Read More

With treatments ranging from a 15-minute facial ($20) to the three-and-a-half hour Extended Stay (massage, manicure, pedicure, and facial treatment; ... Read More

Part of the city’s speakeasy boom, the Thelonious Club is an industrial-looking upstairs jazz bar with a small corner stage where well-known local... Read More

This place is for people like me, who think rubber calculators, Lego USB sticks and toilet seat covers painted with sea scenes are quirky and cool. Look... Read More

On its way to the Atlantic, the mighty Paraná River springs a few leaks, creating an intricate and shifting landscape of wetlands and creeks known as... Read More

Built in 1914 (and temporarily closed until December 2008), this beautiful park—with its Rosedal rose garden and a delicate white wooden bridge... Read More

Evoking the laboratory-style new wave Italian gelateria, this high-design mini-chain keeps it cool with 65 intensely flavored creations under gleaming... Read More

Get all your bath and body needs—or just relax into the spa-like vibe—at this little stand, which carries essential oils, aromatherapeutic... Read More

What could be more appropriate than that a power plant built in 1916 in the style of the Florentine Renaissance should reopen in 2012 as an art gallery... Read More

This celadon and white chocolatería, creates extraordinary confections in the form of automobiles, teddies, hats, and what is practically a... Read More

The geographical center of Buenos Aires during its great expansion during the late 19th century and now a middle-class residential district. A spate of... Read More

The best kind of used bookstore, which is to say a big pile of books behind which walls, doors, and other furnishings can be dimly if only occasionally... Read More

Most of the bookstores flanking the downtown stretch of Avenida Corrientes look like they could fall over at any moment. Zivals is the exception that... Read More

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