Be prepared to wait. And wait. And wait. Since 1964, Domenico DeMarco has been making one pizza at a time at his shop in the melting pot of Midwood, Brooklyn. (Glatt kosher meets masala meets veal marsala.) Cognoscenti—ravenous single males—know to arrive prior to noon for lunch or again in the evening before six o’clock. Hover until you hear DeMarco’s daughter Margaret, who takes orders at the counter, yell at the old man: “Pop! Make a square one next.” The square Margherita is a chewy slice of heaven.
Best Toppings: Freshly cut basil and grated Grana Padano cheese.