Forget convention: at this brainchild of a World’s Best Sommelier, you first pick your wine and then the chef composes something to fit your selection (taking your allergy to shellfish or aversion to mushrooms into consideration). The menu changes every couple of weeks, but may include a Riesling with poached oysters, Meursault with scallops, and Vosne Romanée with artichokes and Bellota ham. Because this is a temple to wine, the ambience ranges from hushed to lively, but the staff is young and passionate, which keeps the experience unintimidating. If your budget knows no bounds, the “Grands Terroirs de France” menu starts with a glass of Cristal 2000 and works its way through five rare vintages, including a Pomerol Petrus 1996 and a Château d’Yquem 1998, and seasonal specialties that are typically laden with caviar or truffles. All this for a mere $1,600 per person.