Up and Coming Jewelry Designers
For three up-and-coming jewelry designers, a love of travel informs their creations.
Asha by ADM
I’ve always had an entrepreneurial spirit and wanted to start my own business,” says Ashley Dodgen-McCormick, whose accessories line, Asha by ADM, first gained attention at Calypso St. Barths. Now, at the ripe old age of 25, she is expanding her collection to include bejeweled clutches.
Dodgen-McCormick grew up speaking Spanish with her Cuban-born mother, learned French at age eight, and later studied in Italy and France, where she met jewelry designer Lorenz Bäumer, who helped get her started in the business. These days she travels everywhere from St.-Tropez to Turks and Caicos, where she recently stayed at Amanyara: “I love the resort’s Zen simplicity.”
For her earrings, necklaces, and rings, the designer uses semiprecious stones (rock crystal, moonstone, onyx, turquoise, white topaz) finished with 14-karat white- and yellow-gold vermeil. “My pieces aren’t for wallflowers. I love big cabochon-cut stones.”
Dodgen-McCormick is influenced by her mother’s Latin culture. “When I was young, I remember seeing gorgeous women wearing chandelier earrings on the beach in Rio. That’s the dichotomy of my aesthetic—a classic sensibility mixed with a more exotic, ethnic look.”
Matthew Campbell Laurenza
Matthew Campbell Laurenza started making jewelry while he was at the Savannah College of Art and Design. Now he splits his time between Hong Kong and Bangkok, creating colorful enamelware pieces.
Laurenza first visited Thailand in 1998 and decided to make it his home. “My favorite spot in Thailand is the beach resort Zeavola, on Phi Phi Island,” he says. “It’s very private with beautiful beachside bungalows.” Laurenza is also a fan of Florence: “The city has embraced Modernism without sacrificing art and architecture.”
Black rhodium–plated enamel set with precious and semiprecious stones. “Everything is handmade and hand-polished, and the stones are hand-set.”
“I love the rose windows in Gothic cathedrals—the Duomo in Milan or Notre Dame in Paris. No matter how many times I see them, they still have a jaw-dropping effect on me.”
Janis Provisor Jewelry
An acclaimed painter with works in the permanent collection of the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C., Janis Provisor became a jewelry designer by accident. The Brooklyn native began buying stones and making pieces for herself a decade ago while living in Hong Kong and trying to get her rug company, Fort Street Studio, off the ground. When customers began buying the creations off her neck, she realized she was on to something.
“My husband and I traveled all over China, Thailand, Japan, and Vietnam. I adore Hangzhou, which was the capital of China during the Southern Sung Dynasty. It’s surrounded by lovely parks and it’s also the silk capital of China.”
Tourmaline, quartz, agate, labradorite, white jade, and freshwater pearls are strung with 18- and 22-karat gold. Provisor mocks up each piece on fishing line before assembly.
“I’m drawn to random things, such as the beautiful light in Bali, or—my current obsession—the green cross that identifies pharmacies in Italy. I’m sure it will soon turn up in my jewelry.”