The Shops You Have to Visit in Buenos Aires, According to a Perfume Master
The creator of niche fragrance line Fueguia 1833, Julian Bedel draws inspiration from the sights and scents of his home country of Argentina. His collection includes such heady perfumes as Pampa Húmeda, a blend of clary sage, eucalyptus, and oregano that evokes the wild green Pampas. Bedel’s business is based in Milan, but he was born and raised in Buenos Aires, where he now has a jewel box of a store. Here, he shares the artisans and shopkeepers — some based around his boutique in tony Recoleta, others in neighboring districts — who most excite him.
Tramando is just around the corner from my store. Designer Martín Churba makes all of his dresses, pants, and tops right at his shop, so everything is artisanal and small-scale. His colorful pieces in the style of Japanese yukata are incredible.
I love the smell of leather when I walk into Arandu, only a few blocks away. It has everything related to gaucho and polo culture, like saddles, bridles, carpincho leather vests made from the skin of the capybara, brightly colored woven belts once popular with the nobility, and buckles fashioned from silver coins.
Marcelo Lucini of Airedelsur combines the traditional craftsmanship in silver and stone from northern Argentina with his own contemporary idea of jewelry and tableware. He’s one of the few people with real access to this network of artisans. He shows his work by appointment at his studio.
At Aracano, on the other side of the Recoleta Cemetery, my longtime friend Federico Alzaga sells his sculptural, gold-and-silver-plated jewelry out of his private showroom, also by appointment. His pendants are shaped like condors, arrowheads, and snakes. I appreciate his authenticity and his focus on a single idea — he takes inspiration from the Andes.
Paul French Gallery is the perfect place to pause while roaming the city. Paul brings together furniture, textiles, design objects, art, and wines from local and international producers. The shop has the spirit of a home, the soul of a gallery, and the heart of a bazaar. Nearby is Ricardo Paz. Collected from all corners of Argentina, Paz’s antique pieces speak the universal language of simple design and materials. They have a rustic quality and showcase the varieties of wood in this country.
Gabriel del Campo Anticuario (427 Bethlem; 54-11-4307-6589) has a vast collection of furniture, from Jean-Michel Frank pieces to reproductions of Roman marble statues. Del Campo is a sublime curator of the cambalache — the spirit of the bazaar — that constitutes our Porteño essence.
Spotlight on Fueguia 1833
The Recoleta shop is lined with dark velvet drapes and vintage engravings. A single long table displays Bedel’s creations, including Halo Lunar — made of lavender, sandalwood, and amber — and Agua Magnoliana, which draws from the Amazonian magnolia tree. The brand also has branches in New York City, Milan, Zurich, and Tokyo.