America's Best Comfort Foods
There are certain feel-good foods we universally reach for when we need to be comforted. A fragrant bowl of chicken soup. A dose of silky mashed potato. A 10-napkin serving of unctuous barbecue. Restaurant trends may come and go, but comfort foods are forever. Fortunately, America is awash with restaurants where the traditional never went out of style.
“As everything around us changes faster than ever, there’s a comfort in things that stay pretty much the same,” muses Salma Abdelnour, a New York–based food and travel writer who blogs about her food adventures at salmaland.com. “There’s a reason why comfort food is comforting…we know what it’s going to taste like, and we know how we’re going to feel when we eat it. That kind of predictability is priceless.”
In this era of food anxiety, it’s no wonder we sometimes feel the need to throw the book away and tuck into foods that remind us of simpler times. “[Comfort foods] soothe the psyche by reminding us of comforting childhood memories,” says Peggy Trowbridge Filippone, a food columnist who writes about home cooking for About.com. “For most of us, these foods are far from gourmet, and generally epitomize home cooking.”
Of course, the foods we tend to most associate with comfort aren’t likely to win any accolades from nutritionists and dietitians. In fact, unapologetic carb-loading is probably the single most satisfying element in a good comfort food dish. When Filippone asked her readers for their favorites, they sung the praises of such fat- and calorie-laden stars as meatloaf, mashed potatoes, and fried chicken. (Strangely, salads didn’t make the cut.)
While on the hunt for America’s best comfort foods, we stuck to tried-and-true dishes that tend to evoke a sense of place. We found a bigger-than-Texas chicken-fried steak in Houston, biscuits and gravy worth lining up for in Nashville, and a chicken soup recipe handed down through generations in Philadelphia, along with a host of other feel-good staples.
The common denominator: all of them are unpretentious, homemade, and in most instances, the kind of dishes that would cause a riot were the restaurants to take them off the menu. About the only things you won’t find on our list are any radical surprises. And isn’t that kind of comforting? —Emma Sloley
Chicken-Fried Steak
The Restaurant: Salt Grass Steak House, Houston
The Skinny: A cube steak pounded thin, dredged in milk, egg, and flour, then fried and served with a creamy gravy: chicken-fried steak (or CFS in Texas parlance) is the southern answer to schnitzel. “It’s as lowbrow as it is outrageously delicious,” says food writer Salma Abdelnour. “It’s also the definition of comfort food: warm, creamy/saucy, a little crunchy, rich, and likely to destroy the rest of your day, in a good way.” She cites the Salt Grass Steak House version—made with Angus beef—as her all-time go-to, thanks to the perfectly crunchy batter and the fact that it’s “so big it hangs off the plate.” —Emma Sloley
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Chicken Soup
The Restaurant: Famous 4th Street Delicatessen, Philadelphia
The Skinny: The best thing about “Jewish penicillin” (otherwise known as chicken soup) is its versatility, variously standing in as magically curative sick food, a late-night snack, or even breakfast. Fourth-generation deli owner Russ Cowan uses his family recipe for this much-loved Philly spot, which has been dispensing Jewish soul food since 1923. The $15 “Famous Chicken Soup” is loaded with noodles, matzoh balls, kreplach (stuffed beef dumplings), and kasha (buckwheat) and serves two to three people…provided you’re willing to share. —Emma Sloley
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Biscuits and Gravy
The Restaurant: Loveless Café, Nashville
The Skinny: Biscuits and gravy are to breakfast food in the South what bagels and lox are to New York, and they don’t come much better than at Loveless Café, where these buttery, fluffy slices of heaven have caught the attention of everyone from the Food Network to the Today show. “Here in the South, we like to say that gravy runs through our veins,” quips Loveless manager Jesse Goldstein. “Our biscuits and gravy are truly a Southern staple…that perfectly simple yet oh-so-filling breakfast favorite.” Go all-out Southern and order them with eggs, country ham, and red-eye gravy. —Emma Sloley
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Meatloaf
The Restaurant: The Blacksmith, Bend, OR
The Skinny: Just when you thought this comfort food classic had nothing else to teach us, it gets reinvented, this time at the hands of talented chef Gavin McMichael of the Blacksmith, a steakhouse serving “new ranch” cuisine in downtown Bend. The “Not Your Mother’s Meatloaf” is made from a combination of beef, pork, and veal, individually baked to order (yeah, how come Mom never did that?), glazed with homemade ketchup, and served with mashed potatoes, creamed corn, and a rich tomato-beef sauce. “The dish has been on since day one,” says McMichael. “We did try to take it off once, and I was inundated with calls and e-mails asking me if I had lost my mind.” —Emma Sloley
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Chili
The Restaurant: Slim’s Last Chance, Seattle
The Skinny: Sister restaurant to the cozy down-home Pig Iron Bar-B-Q, this combo chili shack/live music venue in Georgetown serves four varieties of top-notch chilies daily. Choose from Texas red (traditional all-meat), brisket and bean (using slow-smoked beef brisket from Pig Iron), chile verde (served with green chiles, tomatillos, and pork), or turkey and white bean. All can be served alone or poured over white-cheddar grits or jalapeño mac ’n cheese. You can also go off-topic and order burgers and wings, but really, why would you? —Emma Sloley
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Chocolate Chip Cookies
The Restaurant: Jacques Torres, various locations in New York and New Jersey
The Skinny: The genius of this bread plate–size cookie is that it tacitly acknowledges the need to not mess with perfection while subtly upping the ante of what a chocolate chip cookie can be. The secret of the addictively rich chunks running through the outrageously buttery, slightly chewy round is layers of melted couverture chocolate, the kind used to coat truffles. The chocolate, manufactured by Belgian company Belcolade, is distributed so liberally throughout the cookie you’re guaranteed to get chocolate in every bite…along with a fairly pricey food addiction. Ask for one straight from the oven. —Emma Sloley
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MashedPotatoes
The Restaurant: Stanley’s Kitchen and Tap, Chicago
The Skinny: This convivial neighborhood hangout was founded in 1993 as a pub and restaurant serving home-style food with a Southern spin. All the much-loved standards are here—mac ’n cheese, chili, meatloaf, Southern fried chicken—but the dish to beat is the mashed potato. “We’re sure people love our version because it has plenty of cream and butter,” speculates chef Jaysen Euler. “But we also believe it’s because for the last 17 years they’ve been made the same each and every day. In fact, there are three employees that prepare our potatoes the majority of the time, and all three have been with Stanley’s since the day we opened.” —Emma Sloley
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Mac ’n Cheese
The Restaurant: Slows Bar B Q, Detroit
The Skinny: Chef Brian Perrone has been making his sought-after mac ’n cheese since long before this popular Southern-inspired Corktown joint opened. His secret weapon? “My version uses a medium shell for the pasta, cheddar cheese, and a blend of spices that give it a distinct flavor,” he says, adding, “the ratio of pasta to cheesiness is really high.” The dish is by far the best-selling side on the menu. “The stuff elicits all sorts of moans and sighs and gasps,” Perrone claims, “followed closely by a request for the recipe.” —Emma Sloley
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Ribs
The Restaurant: Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn, Owensboro, KY
The Skinny: If the word buffet brings on horrifying flashbacks of cut-price cruises, get yourself down to the Moonlite Bar-B-Q in Owensboro. The legendary BBQ Buffet at this family-style roadside joint is a carnivore’s nirvana, thanks to tables groaning with plates of chicken, pulled ham, mutton, beef, and the star attraction: ribs. The trick lies in the slow cooking over a hickory-log fire in the restaurant’s custom-built pits. Diners add their own tangy, tomato-y sauce from pitchers at the table. —Emma Sloley
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Cinnamon Roll
The Restaurant: Johnsons Corner, Loveland, CO
The Skinny: Huge yellow billboards on I-25 between Denver and Fort Collins lead the way to Johnson's Corner, a 1950's restaurant that serves one of America's best cinnamon rolls. It's big, hot, sugary, and cheap. Indulge at the old-fashioned counter, or take a table and eavesdrop on the farmers, truckers, and road-weary travelers around you. —Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid
2842 S.E. Frontage Rd.; (970) 667-2069; johnsonscorner.com
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Loco Moco
The Restaurant: Sam Choy's Breakfast, Lunch, & Crab, Honolulu, HI
The Skinny: In his open kitchen, Choy, a North Shore native, sharpens the flavors of down-home specialties such as the ultimate Hawaii comfort food loco moco—a fried egg and a hamburger patty piled over rice and smothered in gravy. Though it sounds like a double-cholesterol diner disaster, his version is a darn good triumph. —Matt Lee and Ted Lee
580 N. Nimitz Highway; (808) 545-7979; samchoyhawaii.com
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Baked Grits
The Restaurant: Highlands Bar & Grill, Birmingham, AL
The Skinny: If sweet tea is the “house wine of the South,” then grits are its daily bread. Executive chef and owner Frank Stitt does baked grits right with country ham, chanterelles, and Parmesan. —Alice Bruneau
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Barbecued Chicken
The Restaurant: Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q, Decatur, AL
The Skinny: There are plenty of finger-lickin’-good ways to season barbecued chicken, and any debate over which is best can quickly get heated. In northern Alabama, the reigning favorite is a mayo-based white barbecue sauce. Trust us, Big Bob Gibson’s tangy twist gets on with hickory-smoked chicken like a house on fire. It’ll make you a convert. —Alice Bruneau
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Ice Cream
The Restaurant: Wong, New York City
The Skinny: How do you bring a modern twist to this age-old comfort food? Do to it what countless restaurants have done to French fries: add duck fat. At least, that’s the path blazed by this new Greenwich Village restaurant. And…wow. Sure, the first bite of any unique ice cream will wake your palate, but that initial thrill usually dies down mid-scoop. Not so with Wong’s “duck a la plum.” The duck fat adds a complex, underlying layer to this innocent-looking ice cream, and each bite brings a relentless release of flavor waves that cascade through your mouth, rendering you silent, stunned, and forever changed. —Rich Beattie
7 Cornelia Street at West Fourth Street; (212) 989-3399; wongnewyork.com
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Donuts
The Restaurant: Doughnut Plant, New York City
The Skinny: Satisfy your cravings with a peanut butter and jelly–filled square donut bound to evoke childhood memories—or, if you want something a bit more decadent, order the Tres Leches donut. The bakery, which makes its glazes fresh with in-season fruit, started in a tenement-building basement with recipes adapted from the owner’s grandfather. The Plant has expanded to include nine offshoots in Tokyo. —Joshua Pramis
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Pie
The Restaurant: The Aroma Pie Shop, Whalan, MN
The Skinny: Maggie Gergen serves at least a dozen kinds of pie each day at her shop in southeastern Minnesota. There’s the timeless rhubarb custard and strawberry rhubarb, but her Bluebarb takes the cake. Gergen made it first—a combination of blueberry and, yes, rhubarb—at a nephew’s request. With her 11 sisters, let’s hope for more inspirations from the Gergen family. —Charlotte Druckman
618 Main St.; (651) 647-1380
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Deep-Dish Pizza
The Restaurant: Burt’s Place, Chicago
The Skinny: Deep-dish pies are a Chicago phenomenon, and Burt Katz is quite possibly the master of this bready variation. For the past 20 years, kitschy Burt’s Place has been a mecca for caramelized crust and market-fresh toppings, although some sticklers may flinch at the funky, cluttered interior. But that’s why takeout was invented.
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Hot Chocolate
The Restaurant: The Little Nell, Aspen, CO
The Skinny: At this resort, one of the country’s premiere ski destinations, the signature hot chocolate—made with Cacao Barry chocolate ganache and whole milk—is the perfect way to come in out of the cold. —Nina Fedrizzi
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Fried Chicken
The Restaurant: Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack, Nashville
The Skinny: Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack is a nothing-special storefront, but its chicken breast is the stuff daredevil legends are made of. Hot is an understatement; Prince’s cayenne kick is enough to warrant bringing a gallon of milk. Supposedly, the famous recipe was thought up by a spurned lover, only the fried-up revenge was the best thing the cheatin’ boyfriend had ever tasted. On weekends, late-night patrons can eat their fill until 2 a.m. —Taylor Bruce
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Burger
The Restaurant: Quinn’s Pub, Seattle
The Skinny: Gastropub is one of those words real lumberjacks can’t say with a straight face, but they still come out of the Pacific North woods for the hungry-man special burger at Quinn’s Pub, an inviting Capitol Hill eatery where eight ounces of natural Painted Hills Ranch beef is topped with cheddar, bacon, and mayonnaise. —Shane Mitchell
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Pancakes
The Restaurant: The Original Pancake House, Portland, Oregon
The Skinny: In downtown Portland, this is the original Original location of the national franchise beloved for its air-filled, oven-baked Dutch Baby pancake, which resembles a sugar-powdered volcanic crater slightly smaller than Mount St. Helens. The choice of batters is extensive: choose from buckwheat, sourdough, and even wheat germ. Polish off your meal with sugar-cured hickory smoked ham and corned beef hash. —Shane Mitchell
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Hoagie
The Restaurant: Sarcone’s Deli, Philadelphia
The Skinny: Forget Philly cheese steaks. In a storefront deli on the edge of Philadelphia’s Italian Market, you’ll find the city’s true official sandwich: a hoagie made on a roll from Sarcone’s bakery, a few doors down. Named for Hog Island, where Italian immigrants worked in the shipyards during World War I, the “hoggie” (which morphed over time into the more palatable “hoagie”) was a meal on the move, made with cured pork meats (prosciutto, soppressata, coppa), sharp provolone, and a makeshift salad (lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and hot peppers, dressed with oil, vinegar, and a pinch of dried oregano). The bread—delicious as it is, with its crunchy seeded crust and soft but chewy interior—is merely transportation. —Francine Maroukian
734 S. 9th St.; (215) 922-1717; sarconesdeli.com
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Hot Dog
The Restaurant: The Red Hot, Tacoma, WA
The Skinny: This Tacoma tavern is like Cheers, only better. It’s a watering hole with some of the most delicious and inventive “red hots,” another name for your regulation wiener. Try pairing The Chicago (an all-beef dog with the usual garnishes) with Everybody’s Brewing Local Logger Lager, or The Coney (an all-beef dog with mustard, chopped onions, and chili) with Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. —Charlotte Druckman
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Lasagna
The Restaurant: Angelini Osteria, Los Angeles
The Skinny: Authentic home-style Italian cooking—simple, rustic, and delicious—is the focus at chef-owner Gino Angelini’s unfussy restaurant. There’s no better example than his herb-infused, dozen-layer lasagna verde, inspired by the recipe of his mama, Elvira. The ragu sauce is simmered for a few hours, the choice of Parmigiano-reggiano cheese provides a more powerful kick than mozzarella, and the garnish of spinach leaves adds flair. —Travel + Leisure staff
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Grilled Cheese
The Restaurant: Melt Bar and Grilled, Lakewood, OH
The Skinny: Chef Matt Fish has elevated the grilled cheese sandwich to gourmet status, with choices running the gamut from the “The Dude Abides” (homemade meatballs, fried mozzarella cheese sticks, rich marinara, provolone and romano cheeses), to “The Lake Erie Monster” (beer battered walleye, American cheese and jalapeno tartar sauce). —Travel + Leisure staff
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Meatballs
The Restaurant: Meatball Shop, New York City
The Skinny: With a meatball-only menu and seemingly endless ball, sauce, and cheese combos, this uni-concept restaurant is anything but limited. Whether you go for “balls à la carte,” (picking from chicken, spicy pork, classic meat, or vegetarian), or sliders, your meal is fully customizable. Even as it satisfies a classic craving, the shop also taps into current industry trends like sourcing ingredients from organic farms and quirky touches like DIY dry-erase menus. —Sarah Storms
84 Stanton St.; (212) 982-8895; themeatballshop.com
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Cupcakes
The Restaurant: Susiecakes, Los Angeles
The Skinny: The patrons of this delightfully retro bakery have Madeline and Mildred to thank for its treats: owner Susan Sarich’s grandmothers carefully recorded recipes on index cards, never suspecting they would grow beyond sentimental treasures into the building blocks of a business. With more than 10 cupcake flavors, including red velvet, chocolate mint and peanut butter topped with fluffy butter-cream frosting, it’s hard to pick just one. —Travel + Leisure staff
11708 San Vicente Blvd. at Barrington Ave.; (310) 442-2253; susiecakes.com
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Bagels
The Restaurant: Absolute Bagels, New York City
The Skinny: New York City is famous for its bagels, and this small, unassuming shop on the Upper West Side happens to serve some of its finest. Reasonable prices have also helped Absolute Bagels earn a devoted following among Columbia University students and locals in the know. The most popular choices include the traditional egg, cinnamon raisin and whole wheat sesame, paired with a number of flavored cream cheeses and classic toppings like salmon. —Travel + Leisure staff
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French Fries
The Restaurant: Girl & the Goat, Chicago
The Skinny: Diners come to this New American restaurant in search of Top Chef season 4 winner Stephanie Izard’s pork- and seafood-heavy farm-to-table comfort food. Her Ham Frites are arguably some of the best in the country, made with homemade ham salt and served with smoked tomato aioli and cheddar beer sauce. —Travel + Leisure staff
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Chowder
The Restaurant: Dolphin Marina & Restaurant, South Harpswell, ME
The Skinny: Hidden at the end of a country road in South Harpswell, this family-run marina-side restaurant’s fish chowder is a well-guarded local secret. The creamy haddock-laden soup has long had lobstermen’s nets in a twist, and since the restaurant opened in 1972, more than a few locals have waxed poetic about the unusually rich, smoky chowder. It comes with wonderful home-baked muffins made with small tart Maine blueberries. The simple menu also includes standard dockside fare like rolls and fried scallops—but with chowder this good, why bother? —Travel + Leisure staff