Culture + Design Architecture + Design Explore This Hidden Gem of Jordan Many Visitors to Petra Never Get To See Add Jerash to your bucket list. By Jess McHugh Jess McHugh Twitter Website Jess McHugh is a journalist, author, and researcher who has reported from North and South America, Europe, the Caribbean, and West Africa. She's written hundreds of stories, ranging from the fight to preserve world heritage in Palmyra, Syria, to the story of the first American dictionary. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, The Washington Post, The Wall Street Journal, The Nation, The Paris Review, Time, New York Magazine, The New Republic, Fortune, Village Voice, International Business Times, CNN, Avidly (Los Angeles Review of Books), AFP Services, The Believer, Lapham's Quarterly, Teen Vogue, Business Insider, InStyle, Dame, Thrillist, Man Repeller, and Travel + Leisure, among others. She can be found between New York City and Paris. * 8+ years of experience working as a writer and researcher * Author of "Americanon" (Dutton, Penguin-Random House, 2021) * Bilingual in French and English * Former staff reporter at Time Inc. and International Business Times. * Received a bachelor's degree in comparative literature from Yale University Travel + Leisure Editorial Guidelines Published on March 17, 2017 Share Tweet Pin Email Photo: takepicsforfun/Getty Images The ancient ruins of Jerash, Jordan, have long served as something of a little sister to the world-renowned city of Petra. Where Petra has figured largely on the bucket lists of travelers for decades — known for its rock-cut architecture and ancient temples — Jerash was more of an afterthought, a site to fill an itinerary gap. Jerash should not be overlooked for its size or relative obscurity. The city encompasses a sprawling site of Roman ruins, including two theaters, a temple to Artemis, and a forum surrounded by more than 100 columns. And given its lack of star status, this secret gem is often free of the crowds that swarm to Petra. "Jerash is one of the best-preserved Roman cities around the world," Eid Nawafleh, CEO of Jordan Tours & Travel, told Travel + Leisure, noting that it is only a 45-minute drive from the capital city of Amman, making it a convenient stop for international visitors. The city of Jerash faces an additional obstacle, and it is a struggle that plagues the entire tourism industry of the country. Jordan shares a border with war-torn Syria and has been a prominent member of the U.S.-led coalition fighting the extremist organization known as the Islamic State or ISIS, which made it the target of an ISIS-inspired attack in December 2016 that killed 10. That said, travel professionals still insist the country is safe for visitors. "Jordan has always been safe for tourism," said Nawafleh. "People, whenever they come to Jordan, they always feel they are at their home because of the warm hospitality of the Jordanian people." Simone-/Getty Images Archeologists discovered evidence of habitation in Jerash as early as the Bronze Age, which began in about 3,000 B.C. The settlement began to take shape as a more modern city during the Hellenistic period. Jerash's heyday arguably began in the first several centuries under the Roman Empire, back when the city's most prominent architectural structures were built under Emperor Hadrian. Given the Greco-Roman influences, followed later by the rise of Christianity and Islam in the surrounding territories, the city has often been compared to Palmyra, Syria, for its amalgam of cultures and architectural design. "It was a major cosmopolitan site in antiquity, so there were major temples and beautiful colonnaded streets — anything you would expect in a major Roman city," Lisa Brody, associate curator of ancient art for the Yale Art Gallery, told T+L. "You get a glimpse at a Roman city and how that transforms into a Byzantine city," she said. An earthquake damaged Jerash and buried its remains in the sand in 749 A.D, though restorers were able to maintain and reconstruct an extraordinary number of the original structures. The main attraction today is a forum surrounded by 160 columns, which earned Jerash the nickname "the city of columns." Two temples, two theaters, a colonnaded street, an agora, and a public fountain are just some of the features of the site that transport visitors back to the Roman Empire. Visitors can take guided tours of the monuments and places of worship, immersing themselves in the mixture of influences that made Jerash the place it is today. Peter Unger/Getty Images "That area is basically riddled with Roman history," said Omar Banihani, marketing manager of the Jordan Tourism Board. "It's had several civilizations come through. When you're at the site, you get to see that." Much of the site remains unexcavated, and Banihani noted that when walking around the site, it's easy to notice pottery fragments scattered across the ruins, indicating the buried treasures that still lie below. The nearby town also offers many of the charms of Jordanian hospitality. Situated in a mountainous area, contemporary Jerash is known for its olive presses and olive oil, which visitors can sample at local restaurants or purchase on a walk through an outdoor market. Banihani recommended buying hot bread in one of the bakeries to enjoy while taking a stroll. Leonid Andronov/Getty Images Visitors who only pass through Jordan to see Petra miss out on the rich historical and cultural experiences Jerash has to offer. Petra remains a must-see destination for any traveler to Jordan, as its cliff faces and temples have mesmerized travelers for centuries, but with Jerash 30 miles from the capital, it's an easy day trip, even for tourists with limited time in the country. "People start thinking that the country has nothing else but [Petra]," said Banihani. "I think this is a simple education." Petra, pictured here, is known for its rock-cut architecture. Courtesy of Evason Ma'in Hot Springs Resort Jerash faces the additional challenge that tourism to the entire country has dropped in the past several years as the fighting continues in nearby Syria. The U.S. State Department also issued a travel warning for the country following the December 2016 terror attack, though it's since been downgraded to Level 2: Exercise Increased Caution. The fight against ISIS has increasingly focused on Aleppo, Syria, and Mosul, Iraq — cities that are both hundreds of miles from Amman. Peter Adams/Getty Images Given the relative isolation of Jordan from the nearby violence, some tourism groups have seen bookings to the country already begin to rebound. Intrepid Travel, a tourism company that leads several Jordan tours, saw U.S. bookings to Jordan rise 80 percent year over year, according to Intrepid's chief customer officer Leigh Barnes, noting an increase in interest in Jerash in particular — many of their tours make the trek to the ancient city. Those between the ages of 25 and 45 were particularly interested in Jordan, looking especially to trek to some of the natural wonders of the country. Pavel Gospodinov/Getty Images The history and stunning beauty of the city have proved resilient, and Barnes spoke fondly of the compelling nature of Jerash. For those who can withstand the harsh desert heat of Jordanian summers, visitors in July and August can enjoy Jerash's cultural festival, which features theater productions staged in the ancient theaters. "It takes you back to a certain time in the world. It just has that really rich history," Barnes told T+L. "It's quite stunning, just visually on the eye." Was this page helpful? Thanks for your feedback! Tell us why! Other Submit