T+L Take: Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection’s S.S. Joie de Vivre

The ship was a labor of love for Uniworld’s owners, the Tollman family, who spared no expense when it came to the materials: think silks, velvets, antiques, and plenty of marble. In the staterooms, pink fabric headboards beautifully offset the solid walnut dresser. Tasteful art, both from the family’s personal collection and various dealers, is displayed throughout. For example, in the upstairs lounge, a series of aquatint etchings from 1861 documenting the history of Paris and the Seine line the back wall. Ringing the room are printed Sanderson fabric couches, which add just the right amount of color.

The ship has 10 suites and 54 staterooms, ranging in size from 410 square feet to 162 square feet (the majority are sized at 194 square feet). All of the staterooms are stylish and extremely well-designed to maximize space. For example, beneath the custom Savoir of England beds, you’ll find two drawers that pull out to stow away suitcases. Shelves on the right side of the bed come in handy for stashing souvenirs or reading material. One wall is mirrored (which creates depth) and also has a built-in television, leaving more space for guests to place objects on the marble-topped vanity. White marble-clad bathrooms have well-sized shower stalls and destination-appropriate L’Occitane en Provence bath amenities. Guests in a category three stateroom and higher can also roll down the top portion of their cabin’s window with a push of a button, allowing for magnificent, up-close views of the Seine.

Passengers won’t ever forget that they are in France. The lunch and dinner menus are filled with iconic French dishes, wine, and yes, cheese. For lunch, the buffet might include coq au vin, Dover sole, or beef bourguignon. Occasionally, hearty English and American fare, such as a duck cottage pie or macaroni and cheese, will show up too, along with personal recipes from Mrs. Tollman—if they serve the key lime pie, just say yes. All of this is paired with a French white or red wine, and it’s nice to see more unexpected choices, such as pinot noir from Sancerre, show up in the sommelier’s hands. At dinner, guests can choose from multiple courses: portions of lobster thermidor, roasted Bresse chicken, and mussels in white wine sauce are sized perfectly so that you never feel too full. For the cheese and dessert course, special attention is paid to Normandy, so that you can try a creamy Pont L’Eveque or Neufchatel, as well as a soufflé spiked with Calvados. All wines and food are included in the price of the cruise.

Uniworld offers several excursions in each port, whether it’s a gourmet walking tour through the markets of Rouen, a morning trip to the charming port town of Honfleur, or a full-day outing to see the famous D-Day beaches. Because the ship is small, tours never feel overly crowded; certain excursions, however, fill up fast so it is best to sign up as quickly as possible. Uniworld can also arrange special outings, depending upon the time of the sailing. For example, during our voyage, a Picasso exhibit was set to debut in the art museum of Rouen, so passengers were able to get a sneak peak (and a champagne toast) two days before it opened.

During the day, the Club L’Esprit is a small wellness facility, complete with a single treatment room for massage and a small plunge pool. At night, the pool is covered, and the space becomes an elegant supper club called Claude’s. The bar also stays open late.

Uniworld’s staff is courteous, efficient, and extremely accommodating to guests’ needs, whether it’s delivering a pot of morning coffee and basket of croissants or keeping group tours on schedule.

Exclusive to the Joie de Vivre, the intimate Les Caves du Vin is a 14-seat private dining and cooking demonstration room. For 95 Euros a person, guests can reserve the space and experience a 7-course dinner and culinary lesson, with classically prepared French dishes (think Normandy fish soup, terrine of poultry, and potato gratin) all paired with a standout wine.