I Took a Girls' Trip to the Best New Hotel on the Amalfi Coast — Here's What It Was Like

My first impression of Borgo Santandrea when I visited in early June was the breathtaking view of the sea from nearly 300 feet above — deep sapphire studded with boats and revelers enjoying a perfect Sunday afternoon. I was traveling with two friends, all of us visiting the Amalfi Coast for the first time and agreeing that we had literally started at the top. We were given a brief tour as we headed to our room, passing seating nooks furnished with stylish mid-century chairs and fabrics in gorgeous colors and prints. Every window we passed, from graceful arches to circles of glass, framed stunning views of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

A hanging fixture made of hundreds of individually crafted ceramic anchovies was a reminder of the Amalfi Coast's bounty of the small fish and perhaps a hint at one of the hotel's restaurants, Alici, the Italian word for the fish. As I learned more about the hotel, I also came to see it as symbolic of the many local artisans whose work contributed to the beauty of Borgo Santandrea.

We arrived at our room — a Premium Pool Suite, with a private infinity pool overlooking the sea, lush garden, curtained cabana, huge marble bathroom, and room for three with an extra bed. The blue and white tiled floor, one of 31 different geometric patterns on hand-painted tiles used throughout the hotel, matched the clouds and sea. Floor to ceiling windows looked out to our expansive outdoor area and the shoreline below.

After several minutes of "oohs'' and "aahs," we made our plans. First, head to the Beach Club, where the hotel's private beach and rows of lounge chairs awaited. We opted for the lift that descends to the shore level, and walked through a rocky tunnel towards the beach, a fascinating reminder that the property is carved into solid rock. On our way, we passed the cocktail bar, set under an arch left natural in its rough stone, and next to it another cave-like bar, this one boasting a pizza oven. How could we resist? Marco prepared a delicious margherita pizza served with a glass of prosecco.

I'd like to say we splashed into the Tyrrhenian Sea and swam out to the jetty after securing lounge chairs and towels, but in actuality, we promptly fell sound asleep for what we all agreed was the best nap ever. Considering we had flown all night and arrived in Rome in the early morning for a three-hour drive to the hotel, a nap was unavoidable. (Naples International Airport is closer, about an hour and a half drive, but we had opted for a non-stop flight to Rome.)

Dinner that evening was at La Libreria, Borgo's elegant restaurant in a library setting with books, art, and ceramics displayed on custom wood shelves. A window into the kitchen with a backdrop of blue and white tiles let us see Chef Crescenzo Scotti and team, who prepared our exquisite eight-plus courses. Dinner was a series of artistically presented dishes accompanied by the perfect wines followed by not just one, but three desserts. We commented on the lighting in the room — comfortably light so we could appreciate the details of each dish.

Breakfast the following morning was another experience to remember. The gleaming stainless steel kitchen is opened for guests to meander among counters filled with fruits, cheeses, meats, cakes, pastries, and granitas while the chefs offer to create whatever you wish. Lunch at Alici overlooking the sea is a chance to sample regional dishes, and the Beach Club features an extensive menu of salads, pastas, and seafood.

The new wellness area includes a sauna, an "emotional shower" with jets and scents, an outdoor treatment terrace, and a spacious gym with the latest workout equipment. Exploring Borgo Santandrea's art, books, ceramics, and sculptures from the owners' personal collections is an entertaining way to spend some time as well. The concierge can arrange activities that include guided private boat tours, hiking excursions, artisan tours with local ceramicists, cooking classes, and wine tastings.

Just one confession: We couldn't tear ourselves away from our private pool, cabana, gardens, and beach, so we'll have to explore the towns of the Amalfi Coast on our next visit. The view of the sea changing in color from deep blue to turquoise and emerald as it reached the shore, accompanied by chilled prosecco, the warm sun, and a cool breeze was all the entertainment we needed.