The English silver-screen actress tells T+L why family tradition keeps her coming back to Siena’s Piazza del Campo.
“When I was growing up, we always traveled to a rambling farmhouse in Tuscany. My dad [John Mortimer] was obsessed with Italy—in fact, he wrote a book called Summer’s Lease inspired by renting the house all those years. But within a few days of being there, we’d all be going a little stir-crazy, and we’d need to make an excursion to Siena, about 20 minutes away. Everyone would go, and we’d park in the nearby football stadium since driving is not allowed in the city center. In more recent years, even when my dad was in a wheelchair, he always insisted on a pilgrimage to see the Renaissance fresco of an equestrian painted by Simone Martini in the town hall, or Palazzo Pubblico, in Siena’s main square.
“Off we’d go, walking down quiet narrow streets with tall buildings on either side, until suddenly we were in this incredible setting—not a square, exactly, but a large, sloping, asymmetrical expanse with the Palazzo Pubblico on one side and a row of cafés on the other, where you can have an exorbitantly expensive Campari and orange juice. My family has visited the Piazza del Campo for generations, and I have such strong memories of my father there. The place remains beautiful and unchanged; it’s always filled with hundreds of pigeons. I have photographs of myself as a child feeding those pigeons, and now I also have photos of my young son, Sam, feeding them. The piazza has been meaningful to me all through my life.”
Emily Mortimer stars in Martin Scorsese’s new film, Shutter Island, set in New England and opening in theaters February 19.
Must-Eat in Siena
“Homemade Malfatti pasta at Osteria Le Logge (33 Via del Porrione; 39-0577/48013; lunch for two $103).”
Tuscan Villa Rentals
“Try Communicart (39-055/233-6920; communicart.it), an agency that represents 40 estates around Siena.”
Another Italian Art Gem
“Sardinia’s Museo Nivola (Orani; museonivola.it) exhibits Abstract Expressionist sculptures by my husband’s grandfather Costantino Nivola.”
Most Romantic Destination
“Essaouira, Morocco, looks like the French Riviera in the 19th century. Stay at Villa Maroc (10 Rue Abdellah Ben Yassine; 212-524/47-31-47; villa-maroc.com; doubles from $130).”
A Taste of Russia
“I lived in Moscow and love Russian dumplings with sour cream. The best are at Tatiana (3152 Brighton Sixth St.; 718/891-5151; dinner for two $70), on New York City’s Brighton Beach.”
Osteria Le Logge
A classic trattoria in a 19th-century former grocer’s shop, the convivial Osteria Le Logge is owned by local celebrity Gianni Brunelli, thrice married to the same lucky woman. Brunelli rears his own Sienese belted pigs. It’s no surprise, then, that regulars swear by his baked pork with star anise.
This Florence-based agency has a roster of 100 Tuscan villas. Well-connected owner Veronica Ficcarelli goes out of her way to book drivers, chefs, and cultural experts for her clients. The agency also represents 40 estates in and around Siena.
The museum Abstract Expressionist sculptures by Costantino Nivola.